A Fond Farewell to Maine: Monadnock SP, Jaffrey, NH 10/2/09

We got a couple of sprinkles last night, but woke up to bright blue skies. What a nice gift for our last day in Maine. We exceeded our usual “pokeyness” and really took forever to get down the last stretch of coast. To put this in perspective, it took us about 5 hours to drive 75 miles or so! For the most part we stuck to highway 1, with occasional jaunts down peninsulas and through villages. One of our stops was in search of Walker Point, aka the “Bush Compound” in Kennebunkport. We read in the paper that the ex-Pres was in town and a commemorative anchor was unveiled in front of his place yesterday. We decided to take a peek and sure enough saw the HUGE compound in all its glory, including the anchor with the “wet paint” sign still on. Lots of secret service vehicles around and people milling about their house, but no personal sighting of Mr. or Mrs. George Herbert Walker Bush. We survived. By about 2ish we were starving and finally settled on a seafood restaurant a little more upscale than we’ve been used to dining. In other words we weren’t sitting outside at a picnic table, but were seated inside with silverware! I’m sure gonna miss those crustaceans, tasty little suckers! (See my farewell pic to them). Our overall take on Maine: Northern Maine is more a blue-collar area, Mid-coast has a lot of the B&Bs, shops & villages and the Southern Maine coast has long stretches of sandy beaches. For the first time on the trip we began heading west (yes, I was a little sad, but Ned reassured me that we still have a good 3 weeks on the trip so I felt better), and headed into New Hampshire. We were pleasantly surprised by how absolutely gorgeous this area is. After being near the ocean for the past week it was fun to head back into the mountains. We are camped at a densely wooded campground near the summit of Mount Monadnock. It’s very quaint and reminds me of campgrounds from my childhood. (You know before they paved the campsites. RV’s would not be comfortable here). Thoreau claims this was his favorite hiking area, and I can definitely understand why. We left the sunny skies of the coast and it appears that weather is headed our way. The temperature has dropped considerably so Ned and I are dining on jiffy-pop and hot chocolate in the winniemobile, hunkering down for a cold and stormy night.

Coastal Maine, Pretty as a Picture: Cedar Haven Campground, Freeport, ME 10/1/09

We’ve been having a grand time really being pokey and meandering down the coast. In fact, we decided to stay an extra day on the coast to just take in the fishing villages, scenery and anything that catches our fancy. Today that included stopping by the Farnsworth Museum in Rockland and spending a couple of hours viewing the Wyeth collection, including the works of N.C, Andrew and James. We were so inspired by Andrew’s depictions of Maine’s classic coastal landscape and the dramatic lighting from the storm clouds moving through the area, that we decided to try and simulate Andrew’s style with our camera. It was fun driving down the Maine peninsulas and stopping frequently to try and get just the right shot. (See today’s pic – what do you think?). The lightening really was fantastic. For the third day in a row we hit up another roadside lobster stand. Today I went all out and had a whole lobster and an ear of corn ($12-can you believe it?!) and Ned went for a 7 oz. lobster roll and a cup of steaming lobster stew. Oh yeah, baby we’re growing claws but loving every minute of it! The towns are all charming and quaint, and we never get tired of seeing the fishing boats, lobster traps, salt box homes, & white houses with black shutters that are ubiquitous along the coast. We ended the day at LL Bean in Freeport, wondering around their flagship store. It was pretty impressive, but didn’t find anything we couldn’t live without (or store in the Winniemobile). We weren’t too impressed with the State Park campground, which was unusual for Maine. So far, they’ve had the best campgrounds of any state! (Actually, I was a little creeped out by the only other campers in the campground, which were some very sketchy looking guys). We opted for a small, private very funky campground nearby. We are really enjoying coastal Maine and look forward to another day on the coast tomorrow. Who knows, we might even go for a fourth day of lobster!

Coasting thru Maine: Camden State park, ME 9/30/2009

Woke up to gorgeous blue skies and decided it was a great opportunity to visit the top of Cadillac Mountain again. The visibility was splendid and it was mind boggling to see that far in so many directions. (See today’s pic). If you ever visit Acadia National Park this is a must see. We had so much fun bicycling the Carriage Roads yesterday we decided to try for an encore performance. The ride we enjoyed this morning was pretty, but not nearly as breathtaking as yesterday. Then we rode over seven stone bridges, today only one. Ironically, the ranger advised us that today’s ride was easier – uh, not so much. A LOT of uphill. We headed out of the park and immediately saw a wine tasting sign at Bar Harbor Winery, Sweet Pea Farm. Considering there aren’t any grapes from here we were curious to see what wines they offered. We opted not to do the grape wine tastings since they were all from imported European juice. Instead we tasted an apple wine (quite good – close to a Pinot Griggio), blueberry wine (so-so, dry but flavorless) and an apple-currant wine (good dessert wine). We drove about 1 ½ miles further and came upon Bar Harbor Brewery. Since Ned was a good sport about the wine tasting, it was only fair to give beer tasting equal time. Once again they featured blueberry ale (which in Ned’s opinion was pretty awful), ginger beer, and a dark porter. Ned was not too impressed and since we were both getting a bit of a buzz on by then (it was not yet lunch) we decided to push on…We finally got off the island and took a totally obscure backroad down a couple of Maine peninsulas. We found a VERY off the beaten track lobster shack, near Penobscot, and decided to partake. For the second day in a row, I went for a lobster roll, but added onion rings while Ned ventured onto a haddock sandwich. Delish! We continued down the coast stopping frequently to see harbors and villages. (Ned did manage to finally taste a whoopee pie. Now we just have to find a Moxie soda). The stately homes and upscale B&B’s on the coast are a lot more tony than the double-wides of inland Maine. We are currently camped at Camden State Park and enjoying the free wi-fi. Great chance to get caught up on email and have some downtime. Yes, I do have a fine glass of California wine poured (thank goodness) and Ned is sampling some Canadian beer that was smuggled across the border. Mmm – what kind of day is this when you start out AND end up imbibing in a nip or two? Ah, vacation.

The Maine Event: Acadia National Park, ME 9/29/2009

It rained cats and dogs last night, but the skies cleared up and it was a pleasant 65-70 degrees for most of the day. We took the back roads to Bangor enjoying the country scenery, but were a little dismayed at the poverty. Lots of double-wides and beat up houses. Once we reached Bangor, we weren’t too impressed. Seemed to be a hard scrabble town with lots of brick buildings, but nothing really to see. We continued on a backroad highway stopping at our first lobster shack outside of Bar Harbor. We each had a lobster roll followed by a piece of strawberry-rhubarb pie. Nice. The real highlight of the trip for me so far is Acadia National Park. I’d been reading about the carriage roads, and I was really looking forward to doing some biking on them. We were not disappointed! During the 1880’s some of America’s wealthiest families began spending their summers on Mount Desert island. The families, (Rockefellers, Fords, Morgans and Pultizers) built palatial summer homes, changing the island’s character from rustic charm to high society. In pursuit of leisurely carriage rides, without having to see, smell or hear the island’s early automobiles, John D. Rockefeller Jr. began building a system of carriage roads in 1913. Separated from motor roads by gates, bridges, and other structures, these paths continue to provide visitors with recreational opportunities in a peaceful, scenic setting. It was amazing to cycle through the forest on these old roads, over beautifully crafted granite bridges and have amazing views of the sea and harbor. During our hour or so bike ride we saw only one other cyclist, two hikers and one couple in a horse carriage. The best bike ride ever!! We also spent some time driving up Cadillac Mountain and visiting Thunder Hole. At the peak of Cadillac Mountain, (the highest point on the eastern coast and the first place the sunrises on the U.S, at 1530 ft), we had a breathtaking panorama over Mount Dessert Island and the surrounding inlets and islands. A couple of huge cruise ships were sailing into the harbor along with a classic four mast windjammer. It was really stunning seeing them against the blue water. Rather than cooking at the campsite, we decided to play tourist and ventured into Bar Harbor for a couple bowls of clam chowder. It’s a cute, fun little town, but mostly catering to the tourist crowd. We are not looking forward to the thousands of people from the cruise ships descending on the island tomorrow, so we most likely will head on down the coast in search of off the beaten track fishing villages and more funky lobster shacks.

Adieu Quebec: Peaks-Kenney State Park, Dover-Foxcroft, ME 9/28/2009

(This is Ned sitting in for Debi tonight.) We woke up again this morning with lots of rain pelting the roof of the van. After a slightly claustrophobic, but good shower in the “former school gymnasium” bathroom, we took off for historic Quebec, without even making our traditional morning coffee, determined to experience another French Quebec culinary experience. Rather quickly we spotted an omelet place that seemed like it would do just the trick. Sure enough, after our BOWLS of piping hot Café au Lait (Debi) and mocha (Ned), we were served with really delicious omelets. Debi was beaming the entire time that we were in the restaurant, as this was just the sort of experience she had hoped for. While dining, the entire uniformed crew of a new Canadian Naval ship, which is currently docked in Quebec marched passed the restaurant window, complete with marching drums. This is apparently a daily routine to encourage people to visit this newly commissioned ship and promote the Canadian Navy. We saw the entire crew again a little later in the town square, standing in formation, as the town mayor made some sort of speech honoring them. (Debi descretely whispered to me that, from the looks of the moderately rotund and fairly middleaged look of the fellows in formation, she didn’t feel that the U.S. needed to fear an invasion from our northerly neighbors any time soon.) For the following hour we walked around different parts of the neighborhood, photographing and marveling at all the great colors and old buildings, as the sun broke through the clouds. (See today’s pic) Soon we were headed south toward Maine, passing lots of spectacular farmland and rolling fall-colored hills. At the border crossing, our customs inspector did a thorough job of asking us how long we had been in Canada, where we lived, what was the nature of our visit, and whether or not we were bringing back any produce, alcohol, firearms, tobacco, or any cash in excess of $10,000. Debi , in turn, asked him where HE lived, to which he replied Dover. Well! For any of you who have listened over the last several months to Debi’s memorized itinerary of our trip, one of her favorite parts was to recite that, once we left Quebec, we were planning on staying at Peaks-Kenney State Park in Dover-Foxcroft, Maine. (Mainly just because she likes the way it sounds!) Well our inspector was very pleased to hear about this, especially the fact that we were anxious to get there before it was scheduled to close, two days from now. Soon we were headed on an alternate scenic route (Route 15) toward Peaks-Kenney, as recommended by our inspector. We rolled into the park about 5:00 and were amazed to see that only two other campsites are occupied. The park is absolutely beautiful, particularly the way every campsite is nestled in amongst the trees. Tomorrow we head for Bangor, Maine, and then Arcadia National Park.

Tale of Two Cities: Quebec City, Canada 9/27/2009

We heard rain pattering on the roof all night so had a pretty good idea what was in store for us today. We decided to have a cozy morning “at home” especially since we didn’t have far to drive for our exploration of Montreal. By the time we arrived in the historic district the rain had abated and it was quite fun to walk around in the mist. (See today’s pic). Fortunately, the weather wasn’t cold at all, about 60, so just light sweaters and our rain coats were sufficient. We decided to have a French brunch at a charming little restaurant called “Chez Suzette.” Ned chose crepes poulet et epinards (crepe with chicken and spinach served with a béchamel sauce). I had a quiche lorraine with a café au lait. Yes, a perfect French meal in the city of Montreal. We drove around and enjoyed seeing the different neighborhoods as well as the university. We were amazed at how big Montreal is! We decided to venture onto Quebec, knowing it would be about a 2 hour or so drive. It rained like crazy during the drive so we weren’t able to enjoy the scenery as much. The crazy thing about being in the Quebec province is that we can’t read very many of the traffic signs. It’s been a little confusing, to say the least, when huge traffic signs on the freeway are flashing different messages and we have no idea what they say! Also, we don’t have any idea why the lights blink green and then stop. Thank goodness Ned has been doing the urban driving!! Once we arrived in Quebec the rain had stopped and we were able to drive around the city and take it all in. We decided to try and find our camping spot for the night (which is another story) – ah yes, the beautiful Camp Coop Esprit. Another glorified trailer park and the bathrooms are in what appears to be an abandoned school gymnasium – in the basement. (Yes, Ned is accompanying me to EVERY bathroom visit). We didn’t feel like hanging around here, and we are only 9 km. from the historic district of Quebec, so we decided to return there for dinner. What a great choice and how romantic! It was one of those magical evening where you can wander around a city at night, enjoy the lights and mist, and have fun window shopping. The restaurant we chose for dinner was the best meal we have eaten yet on this trip! I had Atlantic Salmon in a mango sauce with crème brulee for dessert, Ned had pork loin with a thyme and maple syrup glaze, and a chocolate hazlenut mousse cake for dessert. Visually it was a work of art, and it tasted even better. So, not a bad day to start out in Montreal for brunch and end up in Quebec for a French dinner! After dinner we were strolling around in some of the shops. While looking at the postcards I spotted one that featured the restaurant we just ate in! It was called “Auberge du Tresor”. Who knew we had picked such a famous restaurant? We had so much fun we are heading back into Quebec tomorrow morning for perhaps breakfast croissants! (Yes, I know we are eating our way thru Canada…)

Capitol Day in Ottawa: St. Jerome, Quebec, Canada 9/26/2009

It was COLD when we woke up this morning – about 37 deg. There was no rain in sight, but it was definitely the fall season. After the usual morning routine, we packed up pretty quickly and headed out at about 8:30. It was a beautiful drive out of the park, in and out of the fog and watching the steam rising off the various lakes with the fall foliage in the background. We drove about 2 ½ hours to Canada’s capitol of Ottawa not really knowing what to expect. Unintentionally we came across a bike path along the Ottawa river and because it was such a beautiful day, decided to take it into the centre of Ottawa, Parliament Hill. (The above pic is taken along the bike path). Considering the forecast, we were amazed at the great weather, a downright balmy mid-60’s with blue skies. Roundtrip the bike ride was about 20 miles. (I’ve posted on facebook the ride – check it out). We knew nothing about Ottawa and assumed it was a typical run of the mill city. Boy, were we wrong! It has a very international, cosmopolitan feel. We particularly enjoyed the different languages being spoken: French, English & German, and all the different nationalities including Iranian, Chinese, Haitian, and of course a couple of Americans milling around. The Parliament Hill area is incredible with its castle like setting above the Ottawa River. The copper mansard roofs and gothic stone architecture felt very much like we were in a European city. We came across a marketplace that was surreal. We parked our bikes and spent a couple of hours walking through the stands and shops. A sampling of what we saw: stands that were showcasing berries, flowers, maple syrup, cranberries, vegetables, etc. and all displayed beautifully. We loved the individual cheese, fish, bakery, chocolate and meat shops. We stopped at an outside café and enjoyed a schwarma wrap followed by gelato. Yum! After we biked back to the winniemobile, we decided to venture into the province of Quebec and follow back roads to St. Jerome, our destination for the night. The minute we crossed over the river we knew we weren’t in Kansas anymore. Nothing is in English! As Ned was driving and I was navigating (a dangerous combination), I kept trying to look up words in our French-English dictionary to acclimate ourselves to the non-Anglo environment. After about the third try I was getting very frustrated in not finding ANY of the words. Ned “suggested” that perhaps I was looking at the scrabble dictionary. I checked the front cover and oops, it was our Spanish-English dictionary. Mon Dieu! No wonder I couldn’t find any of the words. After locating the correct dictionary, the searches were much more fruitful. We really enjoyed traveling next to the Ottawa River thru various Canadian-French towns that were quite charming. (I particularly enjoyed Montebello and Fassett!). When we finally arrived in St. Jerome, about an hour outside Montreal, we were a little concerned as our camping destination appeared to be next to a large shopping center, including a Walmart. Fortunately, it was down a country road a little bit and in a very charming “French” trailer park. It’s a warm evening, it still hasn’t rained, and we are drinking wine and beer near a lake, outside the “Salle Communautaire” (Community Room) listening to a dj. He’s playing classic American rock, with a spinning mirrored disco-ball, as French-Canadian teenagers mill around outside. What a day!