Location: Leroy Percy State Park, Hollendale, MS
We were off to an early start this morning to explore the wonders of Natchez, MS. Before the Civil War this town had more millionaires than anyone in the U.S. largely due to the cotton trade. The wealthy plantation owners choose to live in town rather than on their more remote plantations and the mansions they built were quite impressive. Fortunately, this town was spared during the Civil War and over 500 antebellum homes are still standing today. Rather than do a bus tour or driving tour of these homes we decided to bike through the streets of Natchez and really see as many of these beauties as we could. The streets were lined with magnolias, thick with kudzu vines, spanish moss hung from huge old oaks, and the blooming lilac trees were intoxicating with their scent. Yes, it was quite the heady experience seeing these gracious homes so close up. The Melrose Home reminded me of Tara in "Gone With The Wind" with the huge expansive lawn and majestic oak trees. I could just see the ladies dressed in pastel colored large hoop skirts and holding parasols as they socialized with the upper crust. We also rode along the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. What a great way to view this slow moving mass of water on its way to the Gulf. We got excited about following her all the way to the headwaters.
Well, all this riding around worked up an appetite and since we're in Mississippi we HAD to get us some bbq. Where else but at the Pig Out Inn. Pulled pork and cole slaw for me and brisket and baked beans for Ned.
After a thoroughly southern lunch, we officially began the drive up the Great River Road (GRR). First stop was Port Gibson whose town motto is "Too beautiful to burn." General Grant spared Port Gibson from burning to the ground. We checked out the quaint town and kept moseying on the road. This part of the GRR reminded us of the Natchez Trace Parkway with rolling hills, lined with luscious broad leaf trees, and lots of mowed lawn lining both sides of the road.
Next stop was Vicksburg, MS to see the National Military Park. We enjoyed the movie, visitor's center and live reenactment all telling the story of the fight for Vicksburg. It was a long campaign (well over a year) with many back and forth battles, but in the end on July 4th, 1863 General Pemberton, head of the Confederate forces, officially surrendered due to illness and starvation. What I found really fascinating is that for the next 100 years the white citizens of Vicksburg refused to celebrate the 4th of July. The African American community, however, partied on.
Ned's favorite part of the park was seeing the resurrected and restored USS Cairo. This ship, one of the seven Union ironclad gunboats, was sunk on Dec. 12, 1862. It was salvaged and brought on land on Dec. 12, 1963. It took many years to partially restore it. The artifacts were preserved like a time capsule in the silt of the river. It's pretty impressive to see this beast reconstructed. Got a great picture of Ned grinning ear to ear as he spent a good hour climbing over and in her trying to figure out the inner workings.
Tonight we are camped at a State Park along the GRR. It's in a clearing among a forested area. It's beautiful and tranquil, but not much going on. No bike trails and the sign near the lake says, "Do Not Feed the Gators". I guess they like to keep them hungry so definitely no swimming tonight!
