Itasca State Park, Lake Itasca, MN
What a gift that our final day on the Great River Road was so perfect. The last leg of our journey through Northern Minnesota was so jam packed I hardly know where to begin. We woke to an absolute glorious day of bright sunshine, warm weather and no wind. We barely made it out of the campground as a bike rally, complete with 2 police escorts had congregated at the city park. Once we navigated through a hundred or so old geezers in their finest spandex, we headed for the GRR road signs and headed north once again. In this part of Minnesota the Mississippi River twists and turns and spills into lake after lake. It's really hard to navigate the GRR road so we did our best, but it was hit or miss. We eventually made it to Grand Rapids, home of Judy Garland. Well who could resist touring Dorothy's childhood home and museum? As museum's go this one was pretty underwhelming. The most exciting thing was seeing the carriage that was used in the film the Wizard of Oz. Turns out that it once belonged to Abe Lincoln. How's that for a little symmetry! The saddest part was that the original Ruby Slippers were stolen in 2005 and never located. The funniest part and the hardest I've laughed in a long time was when Ned and I were taking our pictures in those stupid little miniatures where holes are cut out for your face. (We so love those things). Unfortunately, this was in the Children's part of the museum. I fit in just fine (there are some advantages to be a smidge over 5 feet) and Ned was able to snap my picture as Dorothy. However, when Ned attempted to be the Tin Man not only was the hole for his face too small, but it was also too low. Ned couldn't get down or up after, nor get his face in the hole while I was snapping his picture. Priceless. We were both laughing so hard we caused quite a commotion and several moms looked at us none too pleased. We decided to mosey on our way and head to Bemidji. I think Ned was looking forward to the gigantic Paul Bunyan and his ox, Babe after his humiliation with the Tin Man.
By the time we reached Bemidji the temp was close to 80. We decided to have lunch at the Minnesota Nice cafe and then go for a bike ride around the lake. Of course we took our kodak moment with Paul Bunyan and Babe and then continued on. The bike trail along the lake was amazing. On one side were lilacs in full bloom, giving off a heady perfumed scent and on the other side were beautiful quaint homes that looked like they were out of a Norman Rockwell painting. My day could have ended here and I would have been thrilled.
Knowing that the headwaters of the Mississippi River were calling to us we piled the bikes on the car and headed out. This time the GRR was much easier to follow. We made several stops along the way for local fare. Once at a smokehouse and the other to buy some smoked white fish from a Native American selling from his pick up truck along the road. We crossed the Mississippi several more times and each time couldn't believe this was the mighty river we had followed for the last two weeks. At times she was more flooded meadow than river and at other times she was a meandering brook spilling into another lake. We finally reached Itasca State Park and couldn't wait to see the actual headwaters. In fact, we bypassed getting a campsite and just hightailed it to the headwaters. Wow...we were both giddy with the excitement of reaching our destination, but also in complete awe of how humbling this journey of over 2500 miles along her shores has been. We've seen the incredible force of the river, the destruction her flooding has brought, the massive and powerful dams trying to tame her and how she has shaped so many lives along her banks. I couldn't help think of the role the Mississippi River played during the Civil War, of the early Riverboat days and all the wonderful Blues Music along the Delta. They say it takes 3 months for the headwater stream coming out of Lake Itasca to reach the Gulf of Mexico. Legend has it that if you walk across the headwater and make a wish it will come true when that water reaches the Gulf. Ned and I took a few moments to meditate, make our wishes and then walk across. I'll let you know on Sept. 13th if my wish came true.
We got a great camp spot near the lake and spent the rest of the day exploring this incredible state park. It is Minnesota's oldest state park and much of it was built by the CCC. We went on a killer bike ride (lots of hills) but had a great time riding on the paths, exploring the Visitor Centers and seeing the old lodge. This park feels much more like a National Park and I'd definitely rate it as one of the top ten in the country.
After all this activity I couldn't think of a better way to celebrate reaching the Mississippi headwaters than busting out the smoked white fish and some Mississippi Mud beer. Now that's what I call the perfect dinner.
So tonight the Great River Road journey ends, but tomorrow another begins. We continue to head north into Canada, driving across our Northern neighbor's plains until we reach the Canadian Rockies. We hear a big storm is headed that way so we will definitely enjoy our summer evening.
