Adieu Quebec: Peaks-Kenney State Park, Dover-Foxcroft, ME 9/28/2009

(This is Ned sitting in for Debi tonight.) We woke up again this morning with lots of rain pelting the roof of the van. After a slightly claustrophobic, but good shower in the “former school gymnasium” bathroom, we took off for historic Quebec, without even making our traditional morning coffee, determined to experience another French Quebec culinary experience. Rather quickly we spotted an omelet place that seemed like it would do just the trick. Sure enough, after our BOWLS of piping hot Café au Lait (Debi) and mocha (Ned), we were served with really delicious omelets. Debi was beaming the entire time that we were in the restaurant, as this was just the sort of experience she had hoped for. While dining, the entire uniformed crew of a new Canadian Naval ship, which is currently docked in Quebec marched passed the restaurant window, complete with marching drums. This is apparently a daily routine to encourage people to visit this newly commissioned ship and promote the Canadian Navy. We saw the entire crew again a little later in the town square, standing in formation, as the town mayor made some sort of speech honoring them. (Debi descretely whispered to me that, from the looks of the moderately rotund and fairly middleaged look of the fellows in formation, she didn’t feel that the U.S. needed to fear an invasion from our northerly neighbors any time soon.) For the following hour we walked around different parts of the neighborhood, photographing and marveling at all the great colors and old buildings, as the sun broke through the clouds. (See today’s pic) Soon we were headed south toward Maine, passing lots of spectacular farmland and rolling fall-colored hills. At the border crossing, our customs inspector did a thorough job of asking us how long we had been in Canada, where we lived, what was the nature of our visit, and whether or not we were bringing back any produce, alcohol, firearms, tobacco, or any cash in excess of $10,000. Debi , in turn, asked him where HE lived, to which he replied Dover. Well! For any of you who have listened over the last several months to Debi’s memorized itinerary of our trip, one of her favorite parts was to recite that, once we left Quebec, we were planning on staying at Peaks-Kenney State Park in Dover-Foxcroft, Maine. (Mainly just because she likes the way it sounds!) Well our inspector was very pleased to hear about this, especially the fact that we were anxious to get there before it was scheduled to close, two days from now. Soon we were headed on an alternate scenic route (Route 15) toward Peaks-Kenney, as recommended by our inspector. We rolled into the park about 5:00 and were amazed to see that only two other campsites are occupied. The park is absolutely beautiful, particularly the way every campsite is nestled in amongst the trees. Tomorrow we head for Bangor, Maine, and then Arcadia National Park.

Tale of Two Cities: Quebec City, Canada 9/27/2009

We heard rain pattering on the roof all night so had a pretty good idea what was in store for us today. We decided to have a cozy morning “at home” especially since we didn’t have far to drive for our exploration of Montreal. By the time we arrived in the historic district the rain had abated and it was quite fun to walk around in the mist. (See today’s pic). Fortunately, the weather wasn’t cold at all, about 60, so just light sweaters and our rain coats were sufficient. We decided to have a French brunch at a charming little restaurant called “Chez Suzette.” Ned chose crepes poulet et epinards (crepe with chicken and spinach served with a béchamel sauce). I had a quiche lorraine with a café au lait. Yes, a perfect French meal in the city of Montreal. We drove around and enjoyed seeing the different neighborhoods as well as the university. We were amazed at how big Montreal is! We decided to venture onto Quebec, knowing it would be about a 2 hour or so drive. It rained like crazy during the drive so we weren’t able to enjoy the scenery as much. The crazy thing about being in the Quebec province is that we can’t read very many of the traffic signs. It’s been a little confusing, to say the least, when huge traffic signs on the freeway are flashing different messages and we have no idea what they say! Also, we don’t have any idea why the lights blink green and then stop. Thank goodness Ned has been doing the urban driving!! Once we arrived in Quebec the rain had stopped and we were able to drive around the city and take it all in. We decided to try and find our camping spot for the night (which is another story) – ah yes, the beautiful Camp Coop Esprit. Another glorified trailer park and the bathrooms are in what appears to be an abandoned school gymnasium – in the basement. (Yes, Ned is accompanying me to EVERY bathroom visit). We didn’t feel like hanging around here, and we are only 9 km. from the historic district of Quebec, so we decided to return there for dinner. What a great choice and how romantic! It was one of those magical evening where you can wander around a city at night, enjoy the lights and mist, and have fun window shopping. The restaurant we chose for dinner was the best meal we have eaten yet on this trip! I had Atlantic Salmon in a mango sauce with crème brulee for dessert, Ned had pork loin with a thyme and maple syrup glaze, and a chocolate hazlenut mousse cake for dessert. Visually it was a work of art, and it tasted even better. So, not a bad day to start out in Montreal for brunch and end up in Quebec for a French dinner! After dinner we were strolling around in some of the shops. While looking at the postcards I spotted one that featured the restaurant we just ate in! It was called “Auberge du Tresor”. Who knew we had picked such a famous restaurant? We had so much fun we are heading back into Quebec tomorrow morning for perhaps breakfast croissants! (Yes, I know we are eating our way thru Canada…)

Capitol Day in Ottawa: St. Jerome, Quebec, Canada 9/26/2009

It was COLD when we woke up this morning – about 37 deg. There was no rain in sight, but it was definitely the fall season. After the usual morning routine, we packed up pretty quickly and headed out at about 8:30. It was a beautiful drive out of the park, in and out of the fog and watching the steam rising off the various lakes with the fall foliage in the background. We drove about 2 ½ hours to Canada’s capitol of Ottawa not really knowing what to expect. Unintentionally we came across a bike path along the Ottawa river and because it was such a beautiful day, decided to take it into the centre of Ottawa, Parliament Hill. (The above pic is taken along the bike path). Considering the forecast, we were amazed at the great weather, a downright balmy mid-60’s with blue skies. Roundtrip the bike ride was about 20 miles. (I’ve posted on facebook the ride – check it out). We knew nothing about Ottawa and assumed it was a typical run of the mill city. Boy, were we wrong! It has a very international, cosmopolitan feel. We particularly enjoyed the different languages being spoken: French, English & German, and all the different nationalities including Iranian, Chinese, Haitian, and of course a couple of Americans milling around. The Parliament Hill area is incredible with its castle like setting above the Ottawa River. The copper mansard roofs and gothic stone architecture felt very much like we were in a European city. We came across a marketplace that was surreal. We parked our bikes and spent a couple of hours walking through the stands and shops. A sampling of what we saw: stands that were showcasing berries, flowers, maple syrup, cranberries, vegetables, etc. and all displayed beautifully. We loved the individual cheese, fish, bakery, chocolate and meat shops. We stopped at an outside café and enjoyed a schwarma wrap followed by gelato. Yum! After we biked back to the winniemobile, we decided to venture into the province of Quebec and follow back roads to St. Jerome, our destination for the night. The minute we crossed over the river we knew we weren’t in Kansas anymore. Nothing is in English! As Ned was driving and I was navigating (a dangerous combination), I kept trying to look up words in our French-English dictionary to acclimate ourselves to the non-Anglo environment. After about the third try I was getting very frustrated in not finding ANY of the words. Ned “suggested” that perhaps I was looking at the scrabble dictionary. I checked the front cover and oops, it was our Spanish-English dictionary. Mon Dieu! No wonder I couldn’t find any of the words. After locating the correct dictionary, the searches were much more fruitful. We really enjoyed traveling next to the Ottawa River thru various Canadian-French towns that were quite charming. (I particularly enjoyed Montebello and Fassett!). When we finally arrived in St. Jerome, about an hour outside Montreal, we were a little concerned as our camping destination appeared to be next to a large shopping center, including a Walmart. Fortunately, it was down a country road a little bit and in a very charming “French” trailer park. It’s a warm evening, it still hasn’t rained, and we are drinking wine and beer near a lake, outside the “Salle Communautaire” (Community Room) listening to a dj. He’s playing classic American rock, with a spinning mirrored disco-ball, as French-Canadian teenagers mill around outside. What a day!

Highway to Heaven: Algonquin Provincial Park, Canada 9/25/2009

We woke up this morning and dang it was cold! (Mid 40’s, but felt much colder). After firing up the furnace, we decided to stay in bed and keep cozy for a bit more. Let me tell you it was one fast bike ride to the shower and back! After warming up with some hot coffee and breakfast, we decided to take an early morning bike ride to the falls. The day started out slightly overcast, so I wasn’t able to get the “morning light” pictures I was hoping for. The falls were still quite impressive anyway. We had a long drive ahead of us to Algonquin Provincial Park, at least 5 hours, but I knew with the stops we usually make it would take us much longer. The drive was one of the prettiest, if not the most beautiful drive yet of the trip. We had miles and miles (or should I say kilometers and kilometers) of rolling hills exploding in fall colors. We drove next to endless rivers and streams, all showcasing autumns finest. (See today’s pic taken from the car). We were entertained by listening to the local CBC (Canadian Broadcast Channel) and occasionally turned on a French station, not that we could understand any of it, but it was fun to hear. We were also amused by the many “Chip Wagons” that dotted the highway. Apparently, other food is served from them, not just french fries. They always seem to be well populated too. Algonquin Park is very similar to our National Parks. One major road goes through the park. The park is quite expansive, 4800 square miles of forest, lakes and rivers. It is populated with moose, bear and wolves. In fact, the park rangers lead something called a “wolf howl”. They scout around looking for a wolf pack, by howling. If they find one, campers organize at the amphitheater and are lead down the highway whichever direction the pack is moving. Funny these Canadians. A couple of women, dressed in boots and down coats, just walked by our campsite and noted that we were a long way from home. They wanted to know if we were enjoying the park and that to them it was still summer! Even though the day cleared up and we were blessed with blue skies, it is definitely getting colder. The temp hit a high of about 65 today, but hanging out at the campsite at 7ish, it’s about 55 degrees. The forecast is for rain and possibly SNOW on Sunday or Monday. Surely these women jest! When we arrived at the park, we took a bike ride on one of the old rail trails. I had to turn back, not because I was tired, but just so darn cold! (We looked at the temp for Nevada City today and it said 94 deg!! – hard to believe.) Tomorrow is another long driving day, thru Ottawa and then on to Montreal. Should be tres magnifique.

Going with the flow: Chutes Provincial Park, Canada 9/24/2009

Another blue sky day, but a bit cooler when we woke up this morning, about 40 degrees. I noticed the difference riding my bike back from the shower – a bit brisk. Before we headed out we took an early morning tour of the lower falls. There are five falls, but much smaller and not nearly as majestic as the Upper Fall. We decided to take a back road to Sault Ste. Marie and what a good choice it was. We drove through the woods, hugging Lake Superior and seeing all these rustic cabins on the great lake. It was very quaint, but I wonder how these people survive in the winter. We stopped at Point Iroquois Light House and spent some time visiting the keeper’s home, museum and grounds. Ned braved it and took the 72 steps to the tower. I wasn’t worried about the climb, but there was no way I was going to walk up open grate steps – too scary! Ned was rewarded with some amazing views, which he captured on camera. The highlight of the day was definitely the Soo Locks. We arrived at the locks just in time to see an iron ore ship pass through. (See today’s pic) It was really, really amazing! The ship was 735 feet long, 75 feet wide and we watched as this mammoth ship was raised 21 feet to pass from Lake Huron to Lake Superior. The whole thing took about 20 minutes. Pretty amazing considering it is all done with water seeking its own level. Today’s picture is of the Quebecois passing through MacArthur Locke. (I’ll post on my facebook page a photo sequence of the ship passing through when I get a better connection). Enjoying another sunny and pleasantly warm day, about 70 deg, we decided to picnic in front of the Soo Locks visitors center. (Day three of smoked whitefish and I can say I am officially over it. Looking forward to entering Canada and finding some other food fetish to keep me amused. Ned has been sticking to peanut butter and apples, wise man.) We entered Canada and of course lied about not carrying any alcohol. Do they really expect a California girl to travel out of the country without California wine?! We really enjoyed the several hour drive on highway 17, traveling next to Lake Huron, and passing occasional lakes and scenic rivers. We stopped at a small Canadian grocery store to stock up on food for the next couple of days. Observations: aged cheddar is called “old cheddar” or “very old cheddar”, large meat case of sausages is about twice the amount of beef and chicken, nice selection of real yogurt, lettuce is shipped here from the Salinas Valley in California(!), and yes they do sell jiffy-pop. Our camping destination tonight is Chutes Provincial Park, near Massey. We didn’t know what to expect since this is our first time camping in Canada. The park is great. Lots of wooded campsites, nice bathrooms, hot showers and it has a laundry facility. We arrived around 6ish, started the laundry and took a spin around the park in search of the Chutes Falls, the park’s namesake. Our expectations were low, especially since there has been no signage advertising the place, We were amazed at the beauty of the raging waterfalls that empty into a swimming hole. Sorry, a little too nippy for me to take a dip, but gorgeous nonetheless - especially with all the fall colors around. We are going to ride back in the morning and try to take some pictures in the early light. Okay, I have popcorn to eat and wine to drink – au revoir.

Tahquamenon Phenomenon: Tahquamenon Falls State Park, MI 9/23/2009

Gorgeous, gorgeous day! We are SO appreciating the blue skies, dry weather and temp at around 70-75 deg. Trust me, we are not taking this for granted knowing that at any day the rains and cold weather can set in.. We left the campground at 10 this morning, but didn’t get very far before our first stop. But, how can anyone pass up “Yooperland.” (Yoopers are slang for Upper Peninsula inhabitants) which included a yard filled with kitschy sculptures, like the world’s largest shotgun and chainsaw, and a gift store that seems to be a cross between dogpatch hillbilly and Scandinavian folk lore. We frittered away about an hour walking around the yard and viewing every hand built contraption you can think of, like a bicycle lawnmower. We proceeded from there to Marquette, the largest city on this stretch of highway in UP. It’s a beautiful city, built right on the lake, with lots of stately brownstone buildings. We did get a chuckle out of region specific businesses, like a skate sharpening shop and a bingo supply store. The next hour or so we drove along the shores of Lake Superior, quite beautiful with all the fall colors next to the blue waters. I think the bread gods were smiling down on me. On one of the backroads we stumbled across a bakery that made sour dough french bread baked in a brick oven! It’s not Truckee, but it’s not bad either and should go fine with the wine this evening. (James, you would appreciate the fact that the woman was from Wawa.) We finally made it to Tahquamenon (rhymes with phenomenon) Falls. WOW – really spectacular and well worth the extra day in Michigan to see it. (See today’s pic). The falls are the largest waterfalls east of the Mississippi. It has a drop of nearly 50 feet and is more that 200 feet across. A maximum flow of more than 50,000 gallons of water per second has been recorded cascading over these falls. This is also the land of Longfellow’s Hiawatha, “by the rushing Tahquamenaw” Hiawatha built his canoe. We had a fun couple of hours hiking to the falls and viewing them from the brink as well as from the lower gorge. After procuring a campsite at the falls for the evening, we decided that we had just enough time to make it to the Shipwreck Museum located on Whitefish Point. This point has been called the graveyard of Lake Superior. Since navigation began on Lake Superior there has been approximately 550 wrecks (6,000 throughout all the Great Lakes). The museum, movie, lighthouse and beach were just fascinating. There were several fresnel lens, replicas of the ships that are located at the bottom of Lake Superior, and interesting history lessons on many of the wrecks. I love this stuff! Currently, we are sampling the french bread with a glass of wine. Ned has the steaks on the grill and we are camped near the rushing of the lower falls. Life is good. Tomorrow we venture into Canada. I think we'll be two days in remote areas before hitting Montreal.

Appreciating the Local Flavor: Van Riper State Park, MI 9/22/2009

Plan A was to get up early and bike the island. We woke up to a rainy morning so decided to hang out for awhile in the winniemoble. After a few games of Skip-bo (where Ned kicked my butt I might add), we decided to check out the quaint town of LaPointe. If you’re not bike riding what’s the next best thing? A couple of blueberry muffins and sharing a mocha, of course! While we were hanging out in the coffee shop WISC-TV Channel 3, Madison, WI was shooting video for a feature spot on Bayfield and Madeline Island. There were about a dozen people in the coffee shop – a family playing UNO, two old codgers, another couple and us. (Good thing we aren’t in the witness protection program hanging out in some Podunk town!) After departing the ferry, we were quite pokey driving along stopping to take pictures and visiting local establishments, including a smoked fish shop. My new favorite food is brown sugar smoked whitefish - to die for!! We continued into Michigan on Highway 28 appreciating the slightly overcast cool day (mid-70’s) and admiring all the colors. The fall colors here, in the Upper Peninsula, have a lot of red, but not so much yellow or oranges. Perhaps those will come later in the season. When we pulled into our campsite, on the shores of Lake Michigamme, we were quite amused by the scary signs, fake RIP cemetery tombstones and Halloween decorations hanging from the trees. Turns out this campground will be completely sold out for the weekend. The locals camp here, decorate their individual campers and the kids trick or treat from campsite to campsite. What a hoot! We asked the ranger why they did this a month before Halloween. He stated that it’s the last chance for the local folks to enjoy the park before it gets too cold. He noted that it’s usually 30 degrees on Halloween and too cold for some of the kids. After our bike ride around the lake and through parts of the park, we were quite hungry and decided to make our dinner out of all the local food we’ve been sampling. Tonight’s fare included the smoked whitefish, a local variety of apples called “Red Free” and pears from Bayfield Apple farm, local cheese from Marquette and french bread. Note we definitely stayed with a California wine. The local “cider” wines didn’t quite do it for us. (For the record, all bread outside of California sucks – pretty bland white tasteless clouds, like bad dinner rolls. I do miss our Truckee Baguettes.) Today’s pic is of our locally procured bounty. Bon Appetite!