No Easy Answers

Shenandoah National Park, VA

First thing we did this morning was jump on our bikes and continue to explore this awesome campground. We rode our bikes a short way to this sweet little lake that was surrounded by soft white sand, landscaped lawns and CCC built structures. (Terry, it so reminded me of the place we camped at in Arkansas, only there was no "By the Book Betty"). Free tip from me, if you're ever driving in Virginia stay at Cave Mountain Lake USFS campground and pick site #6. Just about every campsite is next to the stream, but this one has a little hand built dam made with rocks so it's a sweet swimming hole.

Since we were just a few miles from Natural Bridge we decided to become tourists and take a look. Thomas Jefferson was so enamored with this natural wonder that he bought it from King George for just a pittance. (A little over $2 in today's money). Legend also has it that George Washington surveyed this and even carved his initials in the rock. (Yes, our first president was a graffiti vandal). It's also touted as one of the true wonders of the world. We had to go. I have to admit Ned and I are spoiled by National Parks and Monuments. You usually pay a nominal fee and get a great outdoor experience seeing something pretty awe inspiring. For whatever reason, this Natural Bridge that our 3rd President was so in awe of, wasn't set aside or given to the Government, instead it fell into commercial hands. And that was sad.

When we drove into the town we drove right by the entrance to Natural Bridge. We thought it was an enormous bank - seriously. We entered the world's largest gift shop selling more snow globes and magnets than I thought was humanly possible, and purchasing our tickets for $18 each (ahem), we began the self guided tour. We opted out of the Wax Museum Tour. We descended into the basement of the structure and had to go through Jefferson's play land. (Rolling in his grave, I'm sure). After walking past the outdoor snack cafe we rounded a bend and there she was! I must admit it's pretty amazing. It's hard to grasp the enormity and scale of this natural bridge. A small creek runs through it and you're able to walk alongside the path and through the several story high arch. I guess the concessioners felt guilty about taking $18 for this short little tour so they added in a couple of other extra features, like George Washington's supposed initials being carved in the wall. Of course they were across the creek and about 60 feet away so we had to take their word for it. We also walked past a make believe Indian village (closed), next to a roped off saltpeter mine, near a "lost river" and read sign after sign of "inspirational" quotes. The path finally ended at Lace Falls, which were nice, but nothing spectacular. We enjoyed the morning walk, but it made me sad and so appreciative of our National Parks. No matter what your politics, you have to admit that our National Parks are a treasure.

After that little outing we got back on the Blue Ridge Parkway and drove forever. This end of the parkway doesn't have as many Visit Centers, etc. as the southern end. We finally crossed from the Blue Ridge Parkway and onto Skyline Drive in Shenandoah Park. The views from Skyline Drive are just as spectacular as from the Parkway, but the actual drive, while beautiful, isn't quite as stunning. We finally made it to about half way to through the Park and decided to call Big Meadow our home for the night. (Amenities like laundry and showers beckoned).

We took a ride on our bike checking out the Big Meadow Lodge and Visitors Center. This lodge is reminiscent of the great lodges of the West and has the ubiquitous fireplace and an enormous back porch that looks over the entire valley.

At the Visitor Center we watched a movie about the CCC and spent some time learning about the history of this National Park. Unlike the National Parks in the West where there is some incredible geology (Yosemite, Zion, Yellowstone, Glacier, etc). Shenandoah was created. Yep, pretty much the whole thing is fabricated. FDR and Stephen Mather, the first Superintendent of National Parks, wanted to create a big western feel National Park in the East Coast like the West. So, they went out in search of one. They decided upon Shenandoah. It was close to populated areas, but the problem was "Shenandoah" was pretty much Appalachian farmland and barren of trees. When FDR created the CCC the largest group of young boys were sent here and they created this park. The CCC planted over 100,000 trees, built the road and structures. Basically, what we have today is a National Park that is made up of completely planted trees. It was also heartbreaking to read the stories of all the families that were misplaced (many of them not compensated) so that this National Park could be built.

My lesson for today is that there are no easy answers. It's sad to see a natural phenomena being so crassly commercialized, especially when our National Parks do such a great job. On the other hand, it was just as sad when the government kicked people off the land and made up a forest!!