Monday, July 30, 2012

Off the Beaten Path and into the Boiling Water

Location: Columbia Gorge, Oregon...Memaloose Campground

Last night we camped at a really sweet spot next to the confluence of the McKenzie River and Olallie Creek. It's a pretty magical place deep in a fern and fir tree forest. We went to sleep with the rushing roar of the river. In keeping with the theme of the trip to get in a hike or a bike ride everyday we managed a 3 mile hike after a dinner of popcorn and wine. (Maybe it was more in line of a drunken walk.) After girl chit chat this morning we packed up and headed for the next adventure...hot springs deep in the Cascades. What we didn't plan on was getting lost, frightened and burned in the process.

Word to the wise, never trust anything you read on the internet. While planning this trip (albeit while drinking wine and eating popcorn...mmm do I see a pattern here), we thought it would be a hoot to find some hot springs to soak our sore muscles. We figured by this time in our journey we would have tortured our bodies enough to have earned a good long soak. A local "secret" spot w Austin Hot Springs located 4 miles up from a US Forest Service campground on an obscure forest road. Three maps and a GPS got us close, but we still backtracked multiple times trying to locate this geothermal wonder. In the process a girl's gotta pee and we found an abandoned dilapidated picnic area with a moss covered vault toilet. Look good to me until a snake slithered across my path. (What is with me and snakes?!) Don't ask how the situation resolved itself let's just say we never checked out the vault toilet.

We were not going to let these elusive springs get the better of us! Denise's hawk eyes finally spotted a rusted gate with a hot water sign posted on a tree in the woods next to a raging river. We parked the car and began our trek over to the river when bam...I slipped and fell on a rock bruising the palm of my hand. No broken bones, nothing that wine later tonight won't cure - we ventured on. On the edge of this raging river is a manmade circle of rocks, creating pools, with a few people soaking in them. It's hard to fathom that the water is warm enough for people to soak, especially in the snow melted river. We made our way down to the pools and saw some old rusted warning signs saying be extremely cautious "water temperatures increase suddenly and without warning. Some temperatures near boiling 200 degrees." Denise went to where the pools were, cautiously tested it, and then stepped in. She couldn't stay in and thought it was about 115 degrees. I was outside the pools, walked into the water and it was freezing cold. Not one to like really hot water, I was timid about going into the pools so I was careful to stay outside the rock pool. My next step...HOLY MOLY...was scalding hot!! Seriously burning my foot. It's hard to grasp that 200 degree water is bubbling up from a underneath a freezing river bed and can still burn you. Lesson learned. I don't know if the pictures today will do this justice. We decided this place no longer seemed so magical and decided to venture on. Plan B.

After some reconnoitering we decided to head for the Columbia Gorge and get in a lunch at Timberline Lodge and perhaps a bike ride at the Old Historic Columbia Highway Trail. What we didn't plan on was unmarked roads, single lane gravel byways and logging operations. While planning this trip Denise was inspired by the idea of driving up the backbone of the Cascades. Be careful what you wish for. We KNOW the backbone, vertebrae by vertebrae of the Cascades. Needless to say we had a late lunch at Timberline Lodge at 4:00 pm.

Well fed we ventured thru the Hood River Valley picking up some cherries and apples and headed for a campground on the Columbia River. The campground isn't much to write home about but what it has going for it is location, location, location. It's proximity is near the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail- one of my bucket list items.
Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail

This turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. We traveled on the old scenic highway (paved, my fave) built by the WPA between 1913 and 1922. It was one of the first scenic byways in the United States and a true engineering feat. We rode our bikes thru spectacular rock tunnels, canopied paths and breathtaking views overlooking the Columbia River. This portion of the trail was almost 10 miles round trip and a nice mix of up and downhill. Perfect for an evening ride!!! Tomorrow the we tackle the longer portion of the trail (20 miles) before heading into Washington. Life is good.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Going Dark

Location: Driving thru the Cascades, Oregon...

We are heading up the backbone of the Cascades for the next couple of days and not expecting to get internet connection. So, to our hubbies out there...we are safe, having fun and hope to connect soon. (We are women hear us roar!)

Last night was a hoot. After square dancing and hitting the showers (ahh...nothing like a nice FREE hot shower after a day of hiking, biking and dancing. I'm so impressed with this USFS campground. $15 and you get flush toilets, running water and free showers. Our tax dollars at work...thank you!) We finally get back to the campsite around 10ish in the pitch dark. Denise was awesome guiding me in the total blackness. We had to back up into the campsite, avoiding trees and lining up with the leveling chalks. That was no easy feat considering I couldn't see a darn thing AND we took a short cut and went in the wrong way. This made angling into the site all that much harder. Well, after about 10 minutes or so of Denise shouting out to me, "Turn the wheel left, no the other left...go straight...no, no, turn the wheel"...you get the drift. Well, all of a sudden Denise yells out, "Someone stole our chalks!" and then "Oh damn, they stole your bandana hanging on the tree and the BIKES!" A pit formed in my stomach and I was trying so hard to be calm. A brief pause, then that "aha moment" when we both realized that we were in the wrong campsite!!!! We are still laughing about that! I like to think we were just so tired from our adventures and not just a couple of ditzy women. Yes, hubbies enjoy this story, but not to be used against us at any future time. (Dad, that goes for you too!!).

We started the morning with a 13.5 mile bike ride. It was freezing cold (40 degrees), but warmed up nicely by the end of the ride. It was fun riding past the aftermath of the square dance festival and seeing all the men out there with their cordless drills unscrewing the dance floor. The beauty of starting out so early is that we had the bike path to ourselves and could really enjoy riding along in the early morning with our cups of coffee. Enjoy today's pics!

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Falls, Craters, Diamonds and Twirls

Location: Broken Arrow Campground, Diamond Lake, OR

We woke relatively early this morning (6:45) to another gorgeous day of blue skies. First in order was taking inventory of all our muscle groups...yep, everything still working and feeling good. After a quick yogurt, granola and nut breakfast we decided to do the 4 mile Rim Trail Loop. It was a gentle walk downhill to the lake and the pay off was the incredible views of the still lake water in the morning light. We took the lower Rim Trail Hike back to the bottom of the falls. Wow! Denise and I were reflecting on how great we get along and how my mom kept saying for 8 years, "you two really need to get to know each other." We were just reminiscing about her as we approached the bottom of the falls when a beautiful rainbow appeared. We both got teary eyed knowing mom was with us and we could hear her saying, "I told you so little Missy." Priceless!

We finally pulled out of the campground at 10:15 and headed for Oregon. Denise captained the ship today (drove Winnie) and took her over the border. The two took to each other like ducks to water. (No Oregon pun intended). Mmm, should I be a tiny bit worried about Denise absconding with Winnie and heading for the border? Denise had never seen Crater Lake National Park so of course that was a detour that we had to take. We entered the southern part of the park and were blown away by the canyons of Annie Creek! Wowza. We stopped the car and braved the cliffs to look down, down, down. Who knew Crater National Park had such a canyon? Our next stop was the Visitor's Center for an overview of the park. We watched a short movie about Crater Lake. Did you know it's the deepest lake in the U.S, has no inlet or outlet stream but filled entirely from snow melt and rain, and was created by a volcano imploding? Pretty cool. We then ventured on to Rim Village and took a short walk along the rim path to the Lodge and lookout tower. It's amazing how blue, circular and pristine this lake is - no concessionaires, homes or development around most of the lake. On our bucket list is a trip back to Crater Lake to hike down to the water and take a boat tour.

Fourteen miles north of Crater Lake is the Diamond Lake recreation area. Our plan was to stay in one of the US Forest Service Campgrounds. We had our sites set on Thielsen Campground on the Western side of the lake. We figured since it was the most remote it would be the least populated. On the Southern end of the lake, we decided to check out Broken Arrow Campground and much to our surprise there was hardly anybody here. The added bonus is that this campground has flush toilets and showers. Be still my heart. We camped amongst lodgepole pines and there is only one other camper in sight. It's not the most picturesque campground in the world, but shoot, we'll take a $15 campsite with amenities to ourselves any day! So anxious to check out our ride around the lake we set up camp pretty quickly and were gone...
The bike path is amazing!!!! It's a 12 mile paved trail around the edge of the lake that meanders through woods, marsh, beach, fern grottos, etc. About 3/4 of the way through the ride we biked into Diamond Lake Resort for provisions and you'll never guess what we came upon. The Square Dance Festival!!! Imagine an enormous wooden portable dance floor (the size of a basketball court at least) with lights strung overhead at the water's edge. This resort felt like we stepped back into time and were in the Catskills. (You young'uns, just google Catskill Resort 1950's). The men and women were in coordinating outfits of pink, lavender, red and turquoise. Even down to the matching two tone shoes. I kid you not. Denise checked out the raffle table and was going to purchase a ticket but didn't honestly see a puffy red, white and blue square dance skirt in her future, nor did the sewing basket or crocheted toilet paper holders catch her eye. We were only a few miles away from our campground and decided to venture back. After sharing a good bottle of red wine (nice find Chuck) and a lovely dinner, we are seriously considering packing up and pointing Winnie in the direction of the Square Dance Festival...Stay tuned.

Saturday night and what are two girls gonna do! Head to the Square Dance Festival at Diamond Lake Resort. Wahoo! This place is really a piece of Americana. Cabins, campground, several restaurants, marina, grocery store, and activities for all ages. It does my heart good to know places like this still exist. I'd love to chat more, but we girls got some dancing to do!

Friday, July 27, 2012

Scaling New Heights - The Peakers

Location: Burney Falls State Park, CA

Much to my surprise, Denise was up before me this morning at 5:45am! What's up with that - I'm the morning person and she's the sunflower that slowly opens. However, I'm not going to complain about waking up to a cup of coffee handed to me. Okay, I can see this is going to be the beginning of a beautiful friendship...Our goal was to hit the trail for the peak of Mt. Lassen early and we certainly attained that goal. We were the first ones in the parking lot, but by the time we got situated (backpacks loaded up, feet taped up, one last pee stop) someone else actually started the climb before us. The climb was actually not bad compared to yesterday. It's a steady up with a lot of switchbacks. Yesterday's hike was just plain straight up for a good couple of miles. We were hoping to reach the peak within two hours and were on track when..doh! an obstacle prevented that from happening. A real obstacle, a metal gate. We were so close to the top but the last .9 miles was closed off for trail repair. Bummer! However, we saw that the trail will be opened for full moon hikes in August or September. We vowed to come back and own the peak. (Thomas you don't know this but you are already recruited to make this trek with us). We were back at the winniemobile much sooner than anticipated so after some reconnoitering we decided to head for Burney Falls and get in a bike ride and perhaps another hike. Yes, we are two girls ready to feel the burn. Once at Burney Falls, we checked out the Visitor's Center, watched a video and got some great ideas on how to spend the rest of the day. We took a short bike ride to the cemetery to see where the McArthur Brothers or Sam Burney was buried, the co-founders of the park. Much to our surprise neither were buried there. Oh well, good ploy to get us moving. The ride back was a bit uphill in the blazing sun. (Oh yeah, we needed another layer of dust to top off the Mill Creek and Lassen Peak hikes). We continued on the bike ride down to the lake and had quite a climb back up. If there is a God, our quads HAVE to look better after this trip! We both agreed that if we were going to continue to ride together in the winniemobile that showers were a must. Late afternoon showers...ahhh best damn .50 cents we ever spent! On the bike ride we ran into a park ranger and asked about the evening program. We decided to join him for an early evening hike around the falls up to the headwaters. He was disappointed that we couldn't join him for the old fashioned campfire sing-a-long tomorrow night. Oh and how I love to belt out "On Top of Old Smokey!" As Ned always tells me, what I lack in tone I make up in enthusiasm! The hike began at 6 and lasted for almost 2 hours. We started at the top of the falls and walked to the headwaters. Pretty amazing that millions of gallons of water pour over the falls each day all originating from tiny springs about a mile upstream. The ranger identified plants and provided great tips such as how to tell where the sun will be in a hour's time. Handy bit of knowledge when you're hiking. We totaled up the day's hiking miles and we figured a little over 7 miles. Not bad considering a lot of it was uphill. We are going to see how we feel tomorrow and maybe do a hike before we take off for Oregon. We are having a blast taking photos and blogging together. (Hint to Chuck. I think Denise would LOVE an ipad for her birthday - wink, wink - let's talk). Let's see if Ms. Earlybird is going to bring me coffee again. Mmm, better not push my luck.

Mill Creek or Hill Creek?

Location: Lassen National Park, CA

A month or so ago, my friend Denise Allured and I dreamed up the perfect summer camping getaway. Our plan was to head north to beat the summer heat and explore the backbone of the Cascades from Mt. Lassen to Mt. Rainier. We named this trip the "Double D Cascade Jaunt." Everyday has a hike or bike trek planned. If we are not dead by the end of the trip we at least will be in better shape. Wahoo...the day finally arrived. We took the scenic route of highway 32 and really enjoyed the vistas on both sides of the ridge. By the time we arrived at Mt. Lassen we were in awe of the killer views - you could see Lake Almanor, the wooded valley and beyond.

You know that old axiom, it's not the destination but the journey, well that pretty much described today. When I was about 33 years old, (for you bean counters out there that was 20+ years ago) I hiked to Mill Creek Falls. Somehow I remember that hike as being relatively flat and through a meadow. WRONG! This was supposed to be our "ease into the trip warm-up hike" to get ready for the climb to the top of Mt. Lassen tomorrow. Instead the hike was a very strenuous downhill/uphill climb. I think we hiked a little over 7 miles today. The walk really was about the journey. We ventured through meadows of wild flowers, sometimes waist high in lupin, Indian paint brush, daisies, and corn lillies - to just name a few. We started at Kings Creek and were accompanied by several babbling brooks meandering through the wildflower meadows. We skirted two lakes and then began the descent down, down, down. When we finally reached Mill Creek Falls it was nothing like I remembered. It's the biggest fall in the park of at least a 75 foot drop. Unfortunately, we approached it from the top and were never able to get a view of the actual falls descending. The climb back was a challenge especially since I was still recovering from the Half Dome hike, blistered included. Thank goodness for Denise's patience and expertise on how to tie up laces for a tight fit - way to go Denise! One of the scientific highlights of the hike was stumbling across some bear scat or to be more specific the "fecal plug". When I was in Glacier the ranger gave a talk about when a bear sleeps for the winter (not hibernates) it licks itself and digests its own hair. This forms a "fecal plug" so that he isn't awakened by bodily functions. Apparently it's a rare find to come across this. Imagine our surprise! We spent some time examining it and thought it pretty cool. I know other chicks dote on their looks we get our kicks out of bear scat. This is definitely a match made in heaven. Our campsite tonight couldn't be better. Not bad for showing up and winging it. We are camped at the summit next to a meadow at the end of a loop. We have privacy, shade and a killer view. We got back from the hike a little later than anticipated (3 hr. 47 minutes and close to 7 pm) so instead of cooking up veggies and salmon we made a killer salad with veggies from our gardens. Yum! Of course, the wine helped it go down easy...Tomorrow is the big hike to the top of Lassen. Here's to a good night sleep, blistered healed and an early start!

Monday, July 2, 2012

The Long Journey Home

Location: Somewhere on Highway 97...north of Weed

Contrary to popular opinion, Thelma and Louise were not held hostage by the campground host. We've had several long days traveling or preparing for the trip home. When Lisa and I left Glacier we stopped here and there taking pictures. The scenery was gorgeous but the only animals we saw were two dead moose, legs sticking straight up in the air, on the side of the road and a couple of dead deer. We were thinking of bringing some home to Uncle Bud for jerky, but we decided that even he had his standards. (sorry Uncle Bud, couldn't resist). Lisa showed me around Couer d'Alene and I enjoyed seeing the park, bike trails and cute town. It's such a beautiful city, but somehow I think a just a tad too cold for me during the winter.
Once home we (okay Lisa and Cary) worked late into the night getting ready for the trip to California. Suitcases were packed, boxes sorted, trailer loaded and lights on the Winnie installed. Whew a heck of a lot of activity was whirling around. My cousin Cary is a paraplegic, but I swear nothing slows that guy down! In the winter he blows snow with the snowblower attached to the wheelchair and in the summer he mows the grass! I'm attaching a picture of Cary with the trailer attached to his wheelchair getting it hooked up to the Winniemobile. Pretty remarkable! Lisa and I were traveling pretty light, but dang rolling down to California is a whole new ballgame! Cary is stuffed in the back of Winnie surrounded by wheelchair, pillows, suitcases, coats, Cary's concentrator/oxygen machine, bi-pap machine, and lots of snacks! I never pulled a trailer before, but both Winnie and I have done just fine. The first day we rolled into Bend at about 7:30 pm, went out for dinner and hit the sack. This morning we rose at the crack of dawn and left around 7:30. I think everyone is anxious to get home. Cary hasn't seen his dad (Uncle Bud) for 8 months and I've been away from Ned for 9 days. Yes...it has seemed to me like 8 months! Ned, my dad, Uncle Bud, Cary & Lisa and I are all meeting up for dinner tonight. It's going to be quite the reunion!

Eastern Sierras with Leila and Mike

Walker Ranch Recreation Area & Benton Hot Springs, We spent the last 4 days going off grid and exploring some unique areas around the hi...