It rained all night – it rained hard all night. The first thing we saw when looking out the Winniemobile was that our campsite was flooded. Thank goodness we aren’t tent camping! The rain was still coming down this morning so we obviously scrapped the bike ride and decided to pack up and head home. Going over the coastal mountain range was windy (as in a lot of twists and turns), but so incredibly green. It was a shock when we hit the valley and saw how brown everything was. After being in rain forests for the last couple of weeks we got used to seeing every imaginable hue of green. The Pacific Northwest is a beautiful and magical part of our country. I can sure understand why Josh wants to live there. (Today’s pic is a shot of one of our favorite camping spots in the Olympic National Forest.) Once we drove past Clearlake, the weather completely cleared up and it was downright hot in the valley. As we pulled into the driveway three cords of wood were piled high. Ironically, soon after we arrived it began sprinkling here. Mmm – sounds like the wood arrived just in time. I love living on the road and am usually a little sad when the trip ends. But not this time! I received an early birthday present from Ned and on the way home we picked up my first ever sewing machine. I’m so excited to be home and start making quilts – my new passion. Next week we are heading off to Point Reyes for a three day trip, camping with some good friends. Here’s hoping we can eek out a bit more play time before the wet winter really rolls in.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Mendocino Mellow - MacKerricher State Park, Fort Bragg, CA 9/18
We left one of the best ever campgrounds early this morning and continued our drive down the Avenue of the Giants. The weather was threatening rain, but so far things remained dry and warm. We definitely got a kick out of all the tacky roadside attractions, but the best by far is definitely “The Legend of Big Foot.” We passed drive-thru trees, mystery trees, confusion trees and tree houses! It made us appreciate that if this area hadn’t been made into a National Park and a State Park what the rest of the forest would look like. We pulled into MacKerricher State Park in Fort Bragg around 11 and had several campsites to choose from. We think a lot of people were scared off by the weather – lucky us. After getting settled in, we headed for downtown Fort Bragg and ate at a so-so Japanese Restaurant. Next stop, one of my favorite places in the world – Mendocino! The sky turned blue and it was really pleasant and sunny. We took advantage of the situation and rode our bikes around town and out to the headlands. The sea was an amazing color of jade and turquoise and really mesmerizing to watch. Out over the horizon we could definitely see another storm front headed this way. It made for some dramatic cloud formations as the sky was almost cut in half with clear blue on one side and lens shaped clouds on the other. (See today’s pic). I just love the vibe of Mendocino with the beautiful gardens, seaside cottages, water towers jutting above the homes and the smell of the salt water in the air. Later in the afternoon we stopped for some mochas and Ned waited patiently as I continued my picture taking safari. We eventually made our way back to the campsite and had a rousing couple of hours playing games while drinking wine and munching on some local favorites (goat cheese, french bread, peppadews and figs). Would you say we are camping upscale Mendocino style? It’s about 9:30 at night and a soft rain has just begun. We decided that if it’s nice tomorrow we’ll ride our bikes into town for breakfast and then explore some of the local trails and if the rain continues – we’re heading home.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Here Comes The Sun – Humboldt Redwoods State Park, Weott, CA 9/17
Friday, September 17, 2010
Rainy day on the Oregon Trail – Carl Washburne State Park, Florence, OR 9/16
It rained steadily all night and for most of the day. We weren’t able to ride bikes around the campground, so hit the road at about mid-morning. Even though we were hugging the coastline almost all day, the steady drizzle kept us from seeing too far out over the ocean. We still decided to take the slow route and pulled off of highway 101 to take some back roads and get a feel for the off-the-beaten path communities. Our favorite drive of the day was The Three Capes Drive. The cypress trees along the shore and the haystack rock formations in the ocean were beautiful nonetheless. (See today’s pic – as pathetically foggy it is). We did poke around a couple of local stores and had lunch at the Blue Heron Cheese Factory in Tillamook. Several years ago we had toured the Tillamook factory, so decided to visit the other cheese store this time. It was fun tasting the different cheeses, but they were out of their own Blue Heron brie – go figure! At several stops the locals were bemoaning the fact that they weren’t ready for the rains to begin. I think they haven’t had much of a summer this year. One fellow mentioned that in the last 18 hours his rain gauge showed 3 inches of rain – wowza! About mid-afternoon the rain finally stopped so by the time we pulled into the campground we were able to walk around without getting wet. We played game after game of Skip-bo and then at dusk decided to take our bikes for a spin and visit the beach. We had the place completely to ourselves and enjoyed the foggy stillness. We kept looking for Heceta Lighthouse, but couldn’t see it from the beach. If the weather holds and it isn’t too wet we might take the 6 mile hike to the lighthouse in the morning.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Swimming with the fishes – Fort Stevens State Park, Astoria, OR 9/15
It was wonderful to have breakfast right on the water and hang out for a while at the campsite. The ocean fog had rolled in over night and it appeared as if rain was imminent. After a leisurely morning, talking with friends on my cell, cutting Ned’s hair and taking showers we finally were ready to take the trail around the lake. Turns out the first half of the trail was really for hikers so we ended up walking or carrying our bikes over narrow footpaths and bridges. (See today’s pic). Some of the footbridges were quite elaborate including one covered bridge with windows. Riding thru the rainforest was beautiful and it was fun to point out the different things we’ve learned in the visitor centers of Mt. Rainer and Olympic National Parks. The path eventually led us to a forest road and the riding was much easier. By the time we pulled out of the campground it was close to noon. Our first destination was Westport, a working fishing village. By this time it was mid-afternoon and the “One Eyed Crab” shack was looking pretty good. Ned had a crab sandwich and I had crab legs. Mighty tasty too I might add. The skies had decided to open up and it poured the rest of the day. We continued to meander down the coast, past cranberry bogs, fish markets and seafood stands until we reached Cape Disappointment and pulled into the town of Long Beach. There’s a wacky store that touts itself as a free museum so we decided to check it out. Out front is the World’s Largest Frying Pan and huge chopsticks that serve as guard rails. How could we not stop in? It was a hoot playing with the old-fashioned arcade games and peep shows. For a nickel we watched “Harem Dancers” and “The Fan Dance.” They lasted all about 5 seconds and were really, really lame. There were also fortune tellers (like in the movie, “Big”), passion meters and lots and lots of other kitschy stuff. When we had our fill we braved the rains again and continued down the coast eventually leaving Washington and swimming into Astoria, Oregon. It was about 5ish and we didn’t feel like hanging out at the campsite in the rain so we decided on a movie instead. We saw The American with George Clooney, which wasn’t hard on the eyes ladies, but the story line was a little weak. The rain has finally stopped and tomorrow is supposed to be intermittent showers. Hopefully we’ll get enough of a break to ride the bikes. We are camped at Ft. Stevens State Park at the very northwestern tip of Oregon. We had camped here 3 years ago and were completely fascinated with the military museum and thoroughly enjoyed the 15 miles of bike trails. This mermaid is signing off for tonight – glub, glub.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
A Step back in time – Lake Sylvia State Park, Montesano ,Wa 9/14
When we woke up (rather late) this morning we were equally impressed with the blue skies and to find that we were camped near a sweet little pond. Who knew? I was just so happy to have a place to camp last night that I didn’t pay too much attention to the immediate site. After packing up we backtracked into Port Angeles to visit Olympic National Park’s Visitor Center. We spent about an hour learning about the park and watching the film. I had no idea that this park received an average of ½” of rain a day! Given today’s brilliant sunshine it made us appreciate the weather even more. We had a great time driving thru the park, making several photo stops, and finally stopping at Lake Crescent Lodge. I love this place! It was built in 1916 and feels like a sweet turn of the century resort. It is situated on the lake, with lots of Adirondack chairs scattered on the lawn. When we entered the lodge there was a roaring fire in the huge stone fireplace (not really needed on a day like today, but it definitely added to the ambience) and a Victorian style solarium that faced the lake. Ned suggested we linger for awhile longer and have lunch in the dining room. Good choice! We both had a local fresh salmon nicoise that was beyond divine. I couldn’t tear myself away from this place so we spent awhile longer walking the grounds and really enjoying the vibe. (Today’s pic is the view from the front lawn). We eventually ended up near the boat dock and were going to take the hour or so hike to the falls, but a group of rowdy middle school kids showed up exactly at this time. We just didn’t feel like spending the next hour sharing the trail with them (the teacher was very sweet and somewhat apologetic for their exuberance) so we hung out enjoying the turquoise and jade colors of this glacier lake. Driving further down the road our next stop was La Push, an Indian reservation on the ocean. We were now deep into “Twilight” area and this was definitely “Team Jake” territory. (You Twilight fans know what I’m talking about). The little roadside store had signs that read, “Treaty Line – Welcome Twilight Fans” and a danger sign for the “Vampire Threat”. We were going to buy some local smoked salmon, but the Indian housing development that sold it was so run down and trashed that we didn’t feel comfortable knocking on the door. We decided at this point to track back to highway 101 and hit the town of Forks. Before the Twilight movies this town didn’t have much going on. Now, EVERYTHING is twilight themed. We succumbed and went in one of the stores to look at all the kitsch. The Team Edward and Team Jake and Bella paraphernalia was over the top. (Ironically, none of the filming was done in this town, but in Oregon and Canada). Our original plan was to camp in Bogachiel State Park located in Forks. The campground was very nice, but too close to the road and we were a little worried that the logging trucks would be too noisy. Since it was only 4:00, we decided to push on and head to another state park. We made a stop at Ruby Beach, where the fog was beginning to roll in. This beach is known for the driftwood that’s scattered about. Apparently, it’s referred to as the “bones of the rainforest” picked clean after being washed downstream by winter storms. We reached another lodge in Olympic National Park, Lake Quinalt Lodge, and made another stop here as well. This one was built in 1927 and felt more like the grand rustic lodges of the northwest, rather than the Victorian lodge at Crescent Lake. It too was situated on the lake and had a very expansive green lawn that sloped down to the water. There was a rain gauge totem pole that showed this year’s rainfall was 7ft. so far! The record is 15 ft. per year. Yikes! By this time it was after 6:00 and there were many people relaxing in the Adirondack chairs on the lawn and enjoying the welcome sunshine. Both lodges were beautiful and definitely added to the feeling that we had stepped back in time. We finally arrived at Lake Sylvia campground at about 7:00 and found the most wonderful campsite right on the water. We are far enough inland that the ocean fog doesn’t reach and are looking forward to spending the morning enjoying breakfast near the water and perhaps going for a bike ride thru the park.
Monday, September 13, 2010
A Walkabout in Victoria – Elwha Dam RV Park, Port Angeles, WA 9/13
We woke late this morning and really enjoyed lying in bed and experiencing the sights and smells of the rain forest. There was a steady patter of soft rain all night that turned to a light mist. This campground is exceptionally beautiful and when I saw the park staff raking the sites that sure explained a lot. Only one small catch, Ned managed to get a hot shower, but I could only get cold water. Needless to say it was a very quick shower this morning. By the time we got to downtown Victoria it was noon, but the skies were definitely clearing up and we decided to take a walking tour of the city. After a quick bite to eat we visited The Empress Hotel and enjoyed seeing people at high tea, the art galleries and gardens. We walked along the harbor to the Market Square and Old Town, thru Chinatown and other parts of the city. We thought we’d check on tickets for tomorrows ferry and found out it was already sold out. Yikes! A quick change of plans was in order. Instead of staying another night at Goldstream Provincial Park we decided to catch the 7:30 ferry, landing in Port Angeles at 9:00 pm. Since we had some more time to kill before boarding the ferry we decided to view the stately homes in Rockland. This area reminded us a lot of Piedmont in the Oakland hills. We came upon the Governor’s Mansion and spent a good hour or so walking the grounds. There were several acres of gardens that were just marvelous. They varied from wild gardens, to tree shaded rhododendron groves, rose gardens that smelled divine, Asian and Japanese gardens, and beautiful water features. We had the entire place to ourselves as we meandered thru all the paths. Sweet! After driving a little more thru the residential areas of the city, we decided to park in the ferry lot and hoof it to the other side of the harbor for dinner. Fish and Chips with beer for Ned and a salmon wrap for me. The sun finally broke out and we were treated to crystal clear skies with sunrays beaming down on the water and boats. Once we got thru the grind of customs it was fun riding the ferry at sunset. The view from the boat pulling away from the waterfront was magical. You could see the hotels and government buildings lit up and their reflection in the water. (See today’s pic). As we pulled into Port Angeles after 9 pm, the crescent shaped moon looked gorgeous over the sparkly city lights. This was the first ferry ride we’ve done at night and it was quite fun. Ned and I passed the time by playing Skip-bo on the boat. (Ned figured I wouldn’t whine quite as much in public). Once we reached Port Angeles we drove around in the dark looking for a place to camp. After a couple of failed attempts (either too pathetic or the gates were closed) we found a private RV park. Good news – we have wifi. Bad news it’s a private RV park and we’re camped under a glaring security light. Tomorrow off to explore Olympic National Park and the weather forecast calls for sunshine!
On the high seas again – Goldstream Provincial Park, Victoria, BC Canada
It rained most of the night and was still going at it as we woke this morning. Needless to say it wasn’t a group breakfast at the campsite. We were all heading off in different directions today so the first part of the morning was everyone concentrating on getting their things together and getting situated. After a couple of misconnections, we finally all synced up at the Laundromat in town, grabbed a quick cup of coffee and had an opportunity to get our laundry done. At about 10:30, Josh said his good-byes and walked into town to catch the ferry. I admit there was a tug at my heart as he walked into the rain, with a fully loaded backpack in tow, off to his next adventure. (Be safe Josh and remember to call your mom when you get off the mountain!). Since there was still some time before our next sailing, Denise, Ned and I decided to explore the island. We drove to the west side of the island, to Lime Kiln State Park, to see the lighthouse. Even though there was still a light drizzle, it didn’t stop us from walking around the grounds and getting some great views of the park and lighthouse. Our noses were plastered against the door of the lighthouse looking in when we got lucky. The local park ranger was giving a private tour to his cousin and wife and asked us if we’d like to go along! He was a very friendly fellow who told us about the whale study taking place and the history of the lighthouse. We were able to go to the top of the lighthouse and were rewarded with great views - we could even see Victoria which was 9 miles away. It was fun to watch the harbor seals and porpoises play in the water, too. Afterward we visited the museum and learned a lot more about the transient and Orcas whales. I had no idea that so many pods of whales hung around these parts! Denise left for her ferry back to the mainland and Ned and I ventured to the other part of the island to check out the county park and the exclusive resort at Roche Harbor. As we headed back to Friday Harbor we realized that in 24 hours we had driven on every main road on the island. Mmm – I’ve decided that I’m not an island girl. Lots of fun to visit, but a little too claustrophobic for me. Hanging out waiting for the ferry to take us to Victoria, British Columbia was a good excuse to grab a very late breakfast and get caught up on email and check the upcoming weather. Crossing the channel to Victoria it was quite foggy and the captain kept blowing the foghorn and slowing down periodically to listen for small vessels. Ned was asked to leave the “picklefork”, the elevated walkways on each side of the bow, so the crew members down below wouldn’t be disturbed looking and listening for small craft or hazards. As a result, our ferry crossing took a bit longer than scheduled. Our destination for the night was Goldstream Provincial Park, about 10km outside Victoria, but we decided to poke around Victoria first. The view of the Olympia Peninsula was fantastic! Victoria was still shrouded in clouds, but the storm front ended over the peninsula, thus the sun was shining “God-like” right on the mountain. I’m not sure the picture captured it, but for what it’s worth here it is. We eventually made our way to the campground and were completely surprised by the beauty of this park. Our last two trips into Canada we were not overly impressed with the campgrounds. Everyone was crowded together and were parked helter-skelter. This one is heavily wooded and the campsites are far apart. It feels more like a National Park, even like Mt. Rainier which we just visited. It’s still raining so we’re having an evening of “dining-in” and perhaps play a game or two of skip-bo. Here’s hoping tomorrow brings some better weather so we can hike or ride bikes. I’m beginning to get a little antsy, but glad we have a day off from riding ferries or being held captive on a small island.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Ferry Hopping – Friday Harbor, San Juan Island 9/11/10
Kicking Back on Orcas Island - Moran State Park, San Juan Islands – 9/10/10
We woke to a misty, cool morning surrounded by typical coastal fog. We all gathered for a quick breakfast then concentrated on breaking camp and heading towards the Anacortes ferry to the San Juan Islands. Waiting in line for the ferry was a treat with Bella, who certainly gets her fair share of attention! Once on Orcas Island we drove to the far end and set up camp at Moran State Park. After lunch we decided that a hike around Cascade Lake seemed like the best plan. It was hilly, with lots of ups and downs, but you couldn’t beat the views! We were mainly in a heavily wooded forest along a trail that skirted the lake. The lake gave us a colorful display of teal, jade and steel blue. The flora varied from wild foxglove, ferns and woodeared mushrooms. (Today’s pic is Cascade Lake). Of course, the big entertainment was watching Josh play fetch with Bella and training her to heel and obey. Once we reached the far end of the lake we decided to keep on trekkin’ and go view the falls. They were okay, but not spectacular or anything out of the ordinary. The entire hike took about 3 hours. We decided that checking out the little downtown of Eastsound was next in order. We found a quaint bar, just in time for happy hour, and settled down to some brewskies, a good zin, and some bruchetta. I’m a little worried that we are going to corrupt Josh, the mountaineer purist. I’m sure he doesn’t camp like this when traveling the backroads of China or hiking the high sierras! When we got back to camp, Josh made us all a scrumptious jumbalaya dinner. Yum. Afterwards, we all sat around Denise’s Eurovan (Wallymobile) and played some “chickenfoot” dominoes. Fun Times.
Working Day – Bay View State Park, Washington 9/9/10
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Spring flowers in early fall– Kanasket-Palmer State Park, Washington 9/8/10
It rained steadily all night, which definitely added to the mystique of the rain forest where we were camped. When we woke up it was cool, but not cold and we were shrouded in a misty fog. Our first destination was Grove of the Patriarchs. This was a beautiful hike through the forest that featured the largest trees of the park, showcasing Douglas Fir, Red Cedar, Western Hemlock and Red Alder. We hiked along a crystal clear creek created from glacier runoff that ran through an old growth forest. A cable suspension bridge took us over the creek and into the large grove of trees. We were impressed with how the younger trees grew out of the fallen trees, how everything was covered in moss, and how lush everything was! Mt. Rainier gets over 90” of rain a year which explains all the above. We spent the rest of the morning driving through the park stopping to see several stunning waterfalls and lakes. Unfortunately, there was a thick fog and steady drizzle so the peak of Mt. Rainier wasn’t visible. After spending some time at the Visitor’s Center (a very impressive one too!), we walked over to the lodge and enjoyed a great lunch. Buffalo burgers for the boys and artichoke-red pepper soup for me – yum. After lunch we took a wonderful hike along the Avalanche Lily trail. We had hoped to hook up with the Nisqually trail, but took a wrong turn somewhere and ended up doing the Glacier View and Deadhorse Creek trails. The purple, pink, blue, yellow, white and red wildflowers were spectacular! We also thoroughly enjoyed the deer that we encountered along the trail. (See today’s pic). We made our way to the western entrance of the park and eventually headed to Puyallup. Josh has a job interview tomorrow morning and we had planned on staying at an RV park close by. The picture of Mt. Rainier on the website and the glowing write-up without pictures of the RV park should have tipped us off. After a quick drive by a gravel parking lot packed with run down and sad looking trailers we decided to come up with a plan B. We eventually settled on this state park, about 45 minutes away. Gotta love state parks – they are always consistently better than private RV parks! The drive to Kanasket-Palmer State Park was gorgeous – dairy cows grazing on green pastures dotted with red barns opened up to a panoramic view of a tree covered mountain range. Wow! Tomorrow after Josh’s late morning interview we head toward northern Washington and plan to hook up with Denise with her “new” Eurovan. Should be fun!
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
It was a berry good day – Mount Rainier National Park, Washington 9/7/10
Much to our surprise, it started to rain in the middle of the night. I don’t know why we were surprised, after all this is Oregon! However, the day before the temperature gauge kept playing with the 90 deg. mark and it was bright and sunny. When Ned and I woke up this morning I peeked out of the Winniemobile window to see how Josh weathered the wet night. His tent looked mighty cozy. Apparently the rain woke him up in the middle of the night and he made a mad dash to put the fly on, held down by our bikes – nice touch. It was cloudy, but dry and pretty warm this morning so we decided to take a spin around Champoeg park. It is situated on the banks of the Williamette River and we had a great time visiting the museum, visitor’s center and the pavilion where the Oregon government was first started. The park has several miles of bike paths and we enjoyed seeing the working farm and riding out to the historic general store in Butteville. The paths are lined with thickets of blackberry bushes, lush with juicy ripe berries. The highlight of the morning was stopping along the way to pick berries. Josh donated his water bottle to the cause and we had a blast filling it up, eating quite a few along the way. (See today’s pic). We didn’t pull out of the campground until after 11:00. Next stop Portland. Josh wanted to see downtown Portland and we used the excuse of stopping by an REI store for justification. While Josh perused the store (and bought some stakes for his tent fly), Ned and I hung out at an nearby coffee shop. It was a great excuse to post yesterday’s blog and check-in on facebook. (Congrats Megan on running the Virginia Beach Half Marathon!) After the boys had a snack, we caravanned over the Columbia River and into Washington. We took the back roads into Mount Rainier Park, going through Packwood. It was a gorgeous drive. The sky had cleared up and we drove past green fields with the mountains rising up between layers of fog. We finally reached Mount Rainier National Park, Ohanapecosh Campground at about 4ish and are camped in a beautiful rain forest on a rise above the river. As is typical of this time of year, the campground is barely populated. Nice. The three of us hopped on our bikes ready to do some exploring. Our first stop was the Visitor’s Center and then a short hike to the natural hot springs. Towards the end of the hike it started lightly raining and it seemed like a good time to make a beeline back to the campsite. As I write this blog, we have bbq chicken and corn cooking and are ready to settle down for the night in the Winniemobile playing some games – with some red wine of course!
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
White Line Fever - Champoeg State Park, Oregon 9/6/10
It’s hard to believe that it’s been a month since Josh returned from China. It’s been great to see him again, hear his travel stories and spend so much time with him. (Moms you know what I’m talking about). But, like most 24 year olds, his restless spirit is leading him onto another adventure. Fortunately, this time it’s a bit closer to home - Washington. Ned and I decided it would be fun to caravan with him and spend some time exploring the Pacific Northwest. This morning we began our journey and headed for Portland. We meandered thru farmland back roads in the early morning light as we made our way to highway 5. Along the way we stopped at a California valley fruit stand, (see today’s pic) and picked up some local peaches. Yum! It was pretty much an uneventful drive, but we did notice a large number of vehicles crammed with camping equipment and covered with a light white dust. Finally it dawned on us that these were people returning from burning man. Knowing we had a long drive ahead of us, we didn’t do our usual stopping and exploring. A lunch in Dunsmuir was pretty much our big stop of the day. We didn’t pull into Champoeg State Park until 7:30, but it was still light enough for a quick bike ride, along side of Josh running, thru the park. Tomorrow we are looking forward to exploring this historical site and checking out Portland before heading to Mount Rainier.
Eastern Sierras with Leila and Mike
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