Monday, June 12, 2017

Beach day in Costa Rica

The Falls at Manual Antonio National Park, Costa Rica

 

Our biggest decision of the day was do we hit the beach or hang by the pool. Both won out.

The national park is closed on Mondays. When we reached the little town of Manual Antonio it felt deserted. Most of the little shops were closed and there were very few people at the beach. What a difference from yesterday. Not that a didn't love it!

We played in the surf for a couple of hours. We also met a nice guy from St. Louis on vacation with his sister (he just finished his physician's assistant program) and we spent too much time in the water yukking it up. The water is ridiculously warm so it's so easy to just hang out for a long time.

After realizing we probably had too much sun, salt and sand we went in search of Pipa fria (fresh coconut water).

 

 

Of course we had to stop and watch the monkeys playing in the mango trees that line the beach.

I could watch these guys for hours! I can't believe how many mangoes they consume. They have such personalities. They like throwing the mangoes down on us too. This has definitely been my favorite part of the trip.

 

 

Ah, finally scored that pipa fria! Delish!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After catching the local bus back to the hotel (walking that 1000 ft. climb yesterday in this heat was enough), we settled in to relax around the pool.

I brought my coconut to our bartender/waiter/everything guy (Luis) and asked him if he could give it a whack for me so I could eat the coconut. He did it one better and turned it into a smoothie for me. Ned scored on that one too...delish!

The pool here is so beautiful, set in a jungle garden.

 

At this little hotel the wildlife comes to you. There are lots of iguanas and other creatures (I have no idea what they are called) that are constantly skittering about. The iguanas will hang out, the smaller reptiles are more shy. Here's one of the iguanas stopping by our lounge chair near the pool.

There is one creature here that I've never seen before. It's the size of a jack rabbit, but looks like a large rodent with no tail. They have really long legs so they look out of proportion. I keep trying to get a picture of them, but they're too fast for me.

 

 

We tossed about a couple of plans for this evening, but then happy hour happened.

 

We finally decided on eating a pizza in our room and watch the Warriors Game. Go Warriors!!

 

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Tropical Jungle in Costa Rica

The Falls at Manual Antonio National Park, Costa Rica

We hired, Fernando, the driver that picked us up at the airport to take us to Manual Antonio National Park. It's supposed to take 3 hours, he did it in 2.5 with a 20 minute stop for refreshments and shopping. Go Fernando. He's the gentleman waiting patiently for us in the bottom pic.

At one point Fernando did show us some crocodiles basking along a riverbank, but he was driving too fast for me to take a pic.

The drive to Manual Antonio National Park was pretty, mainly lots of lush green mountainous terrain with the occasional wisp of fog. It's the rainy season now and we were lucky today with just humid cloudy skies and no rain.

 

 

OMG - this National Park is amazing. We were given the advice to hire a guide rather than just wing it on our own. Best advice ever. We would have missed a lot without Juan. It was really hard to pick which photos made the blog.

Zebra grasshoppers

Three toed sloth

Neo-tropical land crab (which only travels to the ocean once in its life to reproduce)

Purple crown fairy hummingbird

Squirrel monkeys - mom and baby eating mangos. (We saw three different types of monkeys: whiteface, squirrel and howlers). I have pictures of all of them too!

 

 

We took several hours to walk through the park. Juan had an amazing spotting telescope on a tripod. There was no way I would have seen the things he was able to spot with the naked eye. He was also really good at hearing, identifying and imitating the different wildlife sounds in the jungle.

We also learned a lot about different flora. He had me poke some baby ferns and watch how they instantly closed up as a defense mechanism to keep from being grazed by animals. He also showed us some ficus type plants that created its own holes in their leaves to look like they had been chewed. Again a defense mechanism. Because they look partially chewed, animals think they are toxic and avoid them.

 

 

 

We eventually made it to a beach within the park and Juan gave us a choice to go back with him or stay in the park. We stayed. And swam. And played in the warm water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked back into town, stopped for a snack, and then instead of taking a taxi or bus back to our hotel we decided to walk. We thought it was a lot closer than it was. And we had to walk over a HUGE hill. Like going up California St. in SF. The scariest part was there are no sidewalks. Made for an interesting walk home. Tomorrow we definitely take the tourist bus to the public beach!

 

 

 

 

 

The small hotel we are staying is amazing. Rather than having a magnificent view of the beach, we are on the jungle side and are butted up next to the National Park. This hotel, called The Falls at Manual Antonio has bungalows scattered throughout the tropical landscape. The bar, restaurant, sitting areas and pool are all open air and on different terraces. Our little bungalow comes with it's own hammock. When we arrived today we were greeted by Roberto, the iguana, on a walkabout.

This place is super chill. The pool is available 24 hours and we can hear all the jungle sounds around us. They have pretty good drinks too at happy hour.

 

Tonight we took a stroll around the town and decided upon a restaurant that was built AROUND a 1954 vintage bomber airplane. It has quite a history. It was part of the secret CIA deal that the US gave to the Sandistas during the Nicaraguan war. The secret deal was exposed (remember Oliver North, Papa Bush and the Iran-Contra scandal?) and the plane was abandoned. Some rich guy bought it for 3 grand and brought it here. It's now the bar in the middle of the restaurant.

Turns out the food was actually amazing. I had a whole fresh red snapper, Ned had shrimp with yellow curry sauce.

What an extraordinary day!

 

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Hacienda Azul Cacao Farm, Turrialba, Costa Rica

Hotel Boutique Jade, San Jose, Costa Rica

 

What a magical, incredible, amazing day. One that will stand out as a favorite memory for years to come.

Part of me just wants to post lots of photos so you can experience the beauty, color and food of Costa Rica and part of me wants to put the story down so you can be with us in this adventure too. How do I choose which pictures, how do I choose which stories??

 

Eric picked us up at 6:30 this morning to take us to the Peralta Cocoa Farm in Turrialba. The farm has now been renamed Hacienda Azul. Greg, one of the owners of Dandelion chocolate made up the foursome of our group. We've traveled with Greg before, who is one of the most fun, gregarious, smart and funny people we know. Eric is super sweet, knowledgeable about the area, and has such an interesting background. He's lived in Italy, Iran and several other places. Both these guys kept us entertained (and in stitches) for most of the day.

After about an hour or so we stopped in a small little village called Santa Teresa for breakfast. It was a gorgeous open air hacienda style restaurant, where they were making cheese tortillas and corn tortillas on a wood stove.

 

 

Eric encouraged us to get the cheese tortillas which can be topped with just about anything you want. (Sour cream, eggs, fruit, meat...). We also had fried cheese on corn tortillas, fried plantains baked in cheese, scrambled eggs and blackberry juice. I think there was a bunch of other things too, but I was just concentrating on this amazing cheese tortilla. When you order coffee here it comes with a steaming hot pot of milk. Dang, wish they served our milk in the States in steaming hot pots. Note to self - make this a habit at home.

The drive was simply breathtaking. We had to drive over a mountain, and because a bridge was out, around a volcano. The roads were in pretty good shape, but occasionally we had to drive through a creek. I'm glad Eric was driving!

We were high in the mountains and I enjoyed watching the clouds hug the hillside and drift in and out of the villages that we went through. This is also dairy country and we passed lots of cows, sheep and goats.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the 6th cocoa farm we've visited, and out of all the countries this farm is the most beautiful. It's a working farm, but could easily be a park. There were ponds, geese, horses, roosters and beautiful flora. Just breathtaking.

 

 

 

We did a walkabout with Wilfred, the owner,and I was impressed with how neat, pruned and healthy all the cacao trees looked. They were planted under a canopy of Spanish Cedar. Wilfred said this wood is used in making cigar humidors.

There were a lot of Indian relics that remained on the property. Here's Ned holding the broken leg of a huge metate, which would be used to grind either corn or cacao.

Wilfred wants to use his creek to power new mechanical dryers with a pelton wheel. We enjoyed sharing with him the we live in the town where Lester Pelton manufactured them. Small world indeed.

 

 

Usually when we visit a farm there is only one activity going on. Today we saw it all! Cracking the pods, putting the juicy seeds in the fermentation boxes and seeing the drying beds. Love the brilliant colors of the pods. They also taste amazing. It's so delicious to take a freshly cracked pod and suck on the juicy, sweet baba that surrounds the seeds. It's hard to describe the taste, but it's definitely tropical - like a citrus, banana, mango flavor. And to think this is where chocolate originates. It never ceases to amaze me.

 

The thing I enjoy most about our little business is making the connection with the people that grow, harvest and prepare the beans. We really enjoy sharing our chocolate with the people that work so hard to bring these beans to market. I have a lot of respect for the hard labor and work they do.

Here's Eric (the cocoa broker), Wilfred (owner of the farm), the foreman of the farm, and the lead worker. Sweet guys all of them.

 

When someone is good at it, cracking the pod is a mesmerizing process to watch. These workers do it more efficiently than anyone I've seen.

The two guys sitting on the mound of cacao pods have a simple block of wood with an angle iron embedded in it. They whack a pod with each hand, then toss it onto the table. The other workers open it up, scoop out the wet beans and toss the empty shell into a nearby bin. The guys in the line of fire end up with juice and pulp from the seeds splattered all over them. Everyone is laughing, having a good time, but working quickly and hard!

 

Towards the end of the day we went to the hacienda on the property, broke out Dandelion's and our Costa Rica chocolate. It was interesting to taste the differences in the bars, mainly due to the roast variations. I loved sharing our chocolate with everyone and amazed that it survived the road trip. It's been through quite a few temperature changes these past several weeks.

 

 

On the way home we stopped at the open air restaurant and had hot chocolate and coconut flan. Yum!

 

 

We got back to the hotel in the early evening, took showers, freshened up and agreed to all meet at a seafood restaurant within walking distance. After the incredible meals we ate today hard to believe I could still eat anything. Nevertheless she persisted:).

Eric and his wife Pia took all of us out. As usual, Greg kept us in stitches with his stories.

I had fresh shrimp with a chimichurra sauce over sautéed veggies and Ned had a whole octopus that was flame broiled served with roasted veggies and mixed greens. There were too many appetizer to describe, all were made with fresh fish. Again, one of the best meals ever.

Tomorrow we head to Manual Antonia National Park. Can't wait!

 

 

Friday, June 9, 2017

Costa Rica here we come!

Hotel Boutique Jade, San Jose, Costa Rica

We spent a very relaxing morning at the camground swimming and just hanging out. We had a 2.5 hour drive to the Atlanta airport, parked Winnie in long-term parking (gonna miss you girl) and caught a 6 pm flight to San Jose, Costa Rica.

 

 

 

 

 

I meant to put this picture in yesterday so gonna post it here. We had an incredible sunset last night. Loved just watching the sky go orange and the fireflies come out.

This lake straddles the South Carolina/Georgia border. It's a great spot to camp and one could easily spend a week here, especially if you had a boat. Most people have one parked at their campsite.

 

 

 

 

Hanging around the airport...and

 

 

 

 

We're off!

 

 

 

 

 

Made it! It's 10:10 pm locally, but 12:10 am EST, which is what time we're used to, at least for the last several weeks. Uneventful flight, long immigration lines and nice hotel.

We got used to it being light until 9ish at night. I forgot that near the equator it always gets dark around 6, year round.

Eric, who supplies our Costa Rica beans will be picking us up at 6:30 am to take us to the farm. Looking forward to it, but first sleep.

 

 

 

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Soaking in South Carolina

Modoc Campground, Lake Strom Thurmond, South Carolina

 

We took a little "we" time today.

This is our third time at Lake Strom Thurmond and one of our favorite places to camp. Knowing we had a five hour drive to get here we pulled out of North Carolina early.

 

Fortunately, we had the Comey testimony to keep us entertained. It made the drive go by really fast.

Here's Ned munching on popcorn as we listened - apropos for the congressional hearing.

 

 

As if the all the political stuff wasn't enough drama, while driving down the highway a truck pulling a trailer (adjacent to us) had a blow-out. He lost his re-tread which caused the fender to fly off and into Winnie.

It just missed our windshield, landing on our hood. We're fine, Winnie is fine, but it sure woke us up. We stopped and the guys with the wacko truck came to check on us. I think they were as shook up as we were. We shook hands, glad everyone was okay. and off we went.

 

Finally here by early afternoon.

First thing was to get set-up in the perfect campsite on the water...check.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, ride bike to nearest store a couple of miles down the road and obtain ice...check.

 

 

 

Create the perfect Moscow Mules...check

 

 

 

 

Ah, soak time with Moscow Mule in hand...Check!!

Mission Accomplished.

We hung in the water for hours...and hours. Hot day, warm water, place to ourselves, pretty dang awesome.

 

 

Ned...hello out there...you good?!

 

 

 

After a fun day in the sun, tonight is all about getting ready for Costa Rica tomorrow. Fortunately, the campground has laundry facilities (thank you US Corp of Engineers). I wish doing laundry at home was this much fun. Bike ride, change laundry, bike ride, fold laundry, bike ride...

Best camping buddy ever...Just love this guy.

 

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Grist Mill and Chocolate Making in Raleigh, NC

William Umsted State Park, Raleigh, NC

 

 

We left Virginia Beach and headed toward Raleigh, North Carolina to meet our friend Sam Ratto of Videri Chocolate. Arriving in Raleigh we had spare time before meeting with Sam, so we toured the Yates Mill and saw a great exhibit about the traditional method of grinding corn and wheat using huge water powered stone grinding wheels.

 

 

 

 

We then went and saw Sam, his wife Starr, and their son, Salem at their sweet home. Salem showed off his driving skills on the front side walk while Sam and Ned visited. After seeing their house, Salem toured their vegetable garden with Ned, and attempted to pick a green tomato while Ned held him in mid-air.

 

 

 

After dinner at one of Sam's favorite hamburger places, we toured the Videri Chocolate Factory. The stone chocolate grinder (melanger) in the lower left photo is one which Sam is now manufacturing for chocolate makers all over the world. Interestingly, it uses some of the same basic stone grinding principles to make very smooth chocolate as the corn and wheat grinding grist mill that we had toured earlier in the day. Salem finished off the evening by "serving" us all from a special restaurant menu he had dictated to his mom. Ned shows off the menu and his order of a doughnut, which cost $7.00.

Sam is one our favorite chocolate makers, and it was great to spend some time with him.

 

 

 

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Taking flight and onto Virginia Beach

First Landing State Park, Virginia Beach, VA

We continued our drive up the Outer Banks making our way to Bodie Island. By the time we reached this island there wasn't much of a island feel to it. Cape Hatteras National Seashore ended and suddenly everything was big box stores, strip malls, highways and lots of houses on stilts crammed together. So glad we started the Outer Banks journey from Ocracoke and got to experience the off the beaten path feel.

The best part of this island was definitely the Wright Brothers National Memorial.

 

After a 30 minute talk by a Park Ranger learning all kinds of interesting tidbits about the Wright Brothers, we took a walk up Kill Devil Hill.

Hard to believe this entire area was sand dunes 100 years ago. In the early 1920's some people planted grass to keep the sand dune in place. Its current location is about 450 feet from the original site. What makes this hill special is that it's the spot the Wright Bros. practiced launching their glider to prove their design was stable and able to fly. I think they did over 1000 trial glides.

From the top of the hill you look down on the actual place where the Wright Bros.' first successful powered flights occurred. There are boulders that mark the first, second, third and impressive 4th flights.

You can also see a replica of their hangar and cabin they lived in while working on their designs.

Mr. Ned ready to take off to our next destination.

 

 

 

Virginia Beach! We rode our bikes along the boardwalk taking in the beach vibe, gorgeous hotel gardens and art sculptures.

I also really loved riding through the residential neighborhoods and looking at all the swanky houses on the ocean.

 

 

 

Ned and I are staying at First Landing State Park just a mile or so from the boardwalk. Linda and Gary have another couple of hours to go til their destination for tonight and then catch a plane back to California tomorrow.

We enjoyed one more meal together then went our separate ways.  Good times!

 

 

Ned and I enjoyed taking a walk around our campground and a stroll on the beach to watch the sunset. Nice end to a fun day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eastern Sierras with Leila and Mike

Walker Ranch Recreation Area & Benton Hot Springs, We spent the last 4 days going off grid and exploring some unique areas around the hi...