Rainy day on the Oregon Trail – Carl Washburne State Park, Florence, OR 9/16

It rained steadily all night and for most of the day. We weren’t able to ride bikes around the campground, so hit the road at about mid-morning. Even though we were hugging the coastline almost all day, the steady drizzle kept us from seeing too far out over the ocean. We still decided to take the slow route and pulled off of highway 101 to take some back roads and get a feel for the off-the-beaten path communities. Our favorite drive of the day was The Three Capes Drive. The cypress trees along the shore and the haystack rock formations in the ocean were beautiful nonetheless. (See today’s pic – as pathetically foggy it is). We did poke around a couple of local stores and had lunch at the Blue Heron Cheese Factory in Tillamook. Several years ago we had toured the Tillamook factory, so decided to visit the other cheese store this time. It was fun tasting the different cheeses, but they were out of their own Blue Heron brie – go figure! At several stops the locals were bemoaning the fact that they weren’t ready for the rains to begin. I think they haven’t had much of a summer this year. One fellow mentioned that in the last 18 hours his rain gauge showed 3 inches of rain – wowza! About mid-afternoon the rain finally stopped so by the time we pulled into the campground we were able to walk around without getting wet. We played game after game of Skip-bo and then at dusk decided to take our bikes for a spin and visit the beach. We had the place completely to ourselves and enjoyed the foggy stillness. We kept looking for Heceta Lighthouse, but couldn’t see it from the beach. If the weather holds and it isn’t too wet we might take the 6 mile hike to the lighthouse in the morning.

Swimming with the fishes – Fort Stevens State Park, Astoria, OR 9/15

It was wonderful to have breakfast right on the water and hang out for a while at the campsite. The ocean fog had rolled in over night and it appeared as if rain was imminent. After a leisurely morning, talking with friends on my cell, cutting Ned’s hair and taking showers we finally were ready to take the trail around the lake. Turns out the first half of the trail was really for hikers so we ended up walking or carrying our bikes over narrow footpaths and bridges. (See today’s pic). Some of the footbridges were quite elaborate including one covered bridge with windows. Riding thru the rainforest was beautiful and it was fun to point out the different things we’ve learned in the visitor centers of Mt. Rainer and Olympic National Parks. The path eventually led us to a forest road and the riding was much easier. By the time we pulled out of the campground it was close to noon. Our first destination was Westport, a working fishing village. By this time it was mid-afternoon and the “One Eyed Crab” shack was looking pretty good. Ned had a crab sandwich and I had crab legs. Mighty tasty too I might add. The skies had decided to open up and it poured the rest of the day. We continued to meander down the coast, past cranberry bogs, fish markets and seafood stands until we reached Cape Disappointment and pulled into the town of Long Beach. There’s a wacky store that touts itself as a free museum so we decided to check it out. Out front is the World’s Largest Frying Pan and huge chopsticks that serve as guard rails. How could we not stop in? It was a hoot playing with the old-fashioned arcade games and peep shows. For a nickel we watched “Harem Dancers” and “The Fan Dance.” They lasted all about 5 seconds and were really, really lame. There were also fortune tellers (like in the movie, “Big”), passion meters and lots and lots of other kitschy stuff. When we had our fill we braved the rains again and continued down the coast eventually leaving Washington and swimming into Astoria, Oregon. It was about 5ish and we didn’t feel like hanging out at the campsite in the rain so we decided on a movie instead. We saw The American with George Clooney, which wasn’t hard on the eyes ladies, but the story line was a little weak. The rain has finally stopped and tomorrow is supposed to be intermittent showers. Hopefully we’ll get enough of a break to ride the bikes. We are camped at Ft. Stevens State Park at the very northwestern tip of Oregon. We had camped here 3 years ago and were completely fascinated with the military museum and thoroughly enjoyed the 15 miles of bike trails. This mermaid is signing off for tonight – glub, glub.

A Step back in time – Lake Sylvia State Park, Montesano ,Wa 9/14

When we woke up (rather late) this morning we were equally impressed with the blue skies and to find that we were camped near a sweet little pond. Who knew? I was just so happy to have a place to camp last night that I didn’t pay too much attention to the immediate site. After packing up we backtracked into Port Angeles to visit Olympic National Park’s Visitor Center. We spent about an hour learning about the park and watching the film. I had no idea that this park received an average of ½” of rain a day! Given today’s brilliant sunshine it made us appreciate the weather even more. We had a great time driving thru the park, making several photo stops, and finally stopping at Lake Crescent Lodge. I love this place! It was built in 1916 and feels like a sweet turn of the century resort. It is situated on the lake, with lots of Adirondack chairs scattered on the lawn. When we entered the lodge there was a roaring fire in the huge stone fireplace (not really needed on a day like today, but it definitely added to the ambience) and a Victorian style solarium that faced the lake. Ned suggested we linger for awhile longer and have lunch in the dining room. Good choice! We both had a local fresh salmon nicoise that was beyond divine. I couldn’t tear myself away from this place so we spent awhile longer walking the grounds and really enjoying the vibe. (Today’s pic is the view from the front lawn). We eventually ended up near the boat dock and were going to take the hour or so hike to the falls, but a group of rowdy middle school kids showed up exactly at this time. We just didn’t feel like spending the next hour sharing the trail with them (the teacher was very sweet and somewhat apologetic for their exuberance) so we hung out enjoying the turquoise and jade colors of this glacier lake. Driving further down the road our next stop was La Push, an Indian reservation on the ocean. We were now deep into “Twilight” area and this was definitely “Team Jake” territory. (You Twilight fans know what I’m talking about). The little roadside store had signs that read, “Treaty Line – Welcome Twilight Fans” and a danger sign for the “Vampire Threat”. We were going to buy some local smoked salmon, but the Indian housing development that sold it was so run down and trashed that we didn’t feel comfortable knocking on the door. We decided at this point to track back to highway 101 and hit the town of Forks. Before the Twilight movies this town didn’t have much going on. Now, EVERYTHING is twilight themed. We succumbed and went in one of the stores to look at all the kitsch. The Team Edward and Team Jake and Bella paraphernalia was over the top. (Ironically, none of the filming was done in this town, but in Oregon and Canada). Our original plan was to camp in Bogachiel State Park located in Forks. The campground was very nice, but too close to the road and we were a little worried that the logging trucks would be too noisy. Since it was only 4:00, we decided to push on and head to another state park. We made a stop at Ruby Beach, where the fog was beginning to roll in. This beach is known for the driftwood that’s scattered about. Apparently, it’s referred to as the “bones of the rainforest” picked clean after being washed downstream by winter storms. We reached another lodge in Olympic National Park, Lake Quinalt Lodge, and made another stop here as well. This one was built in 1927 and felt more like the grand rustic lodges of the northwest, rather than the Victorian lodge at Crescent Lake. It too was situated on the lake and had a very expansive green lawn that sloped down to the water. There was a rain gauge totem pole that showed this year’s rainfall was 7ft. so far! The record is 15 ft. per year. Yikes! By this time it was after 6:00 and there were many people relaxing in the Adirondack chairs on the lawn and enjoying the welcome sunshine. Both lodges were beautiful and definitely added to the feeling that we had stepped back in time. We finally arrived at Lake Sylvia campground at about 7:00 and found the most wonderful campsite right on the water. We are far enough inland that the ocean fog doesn’t reach and are looking forward to spending the morning enjoying breakfast near the water and perhaps going for a bike ride thru the park.

A Walkabout in Victoria – Elwha Dam RV Park, Port Angeles, WA 9/13

We woke late this morning and really enjoyed lying in bed and experiencing the sights and smells of the rain forest. There was a steady patter of soft rain all night that turned to a light mist. This campground is exceptionally beautiful and when I saw the park staff raking the sites that sure explained a lot. Only one small catch, Ned managed to get a hot shower, but I could only get cold water. Needless to say it was a very quick shower this morning. By the time we got to downtown Victoria it was noon, but the skies were definitely clearing up and we decided to take a walking tour of the city. After a quick bite to eat we visited The Empress Hotel and enjoyed seeing people at high tea, the art galleries and gardens. We walked along the harbor to the Market Square and Old Town, thru Chinatown and other parts of the city. We thought we’d check on tickets for tomorrows ferry and found out it was already sold out. Yikes! A quick change of plans was in order. Instead of staying another night at Goldstream Provincial Park we decided to catch the 7:30 ferry, landing in Port Angeles at 9:00 pm. Since we had some more time to kill before boarding the ferry we decided to view the stately homes in Rockland. This area reminded us a lot of Piedmont in the Oakland hills. We came upon the Governor’s Mansion and spent a good hour or so walking the grounds. There were several acres of gardens that were just marvelous. They varied from wild gardens, to tree shaded rhododendron groves, rose gardens that smelled divine, Asian and Japanese gardens, and beautiful water features. We had the entire place to ourselves as we meandered thru all the paths. Sweet! After driving a little more thru the residential areas of the city, we decided to park in the ferry lot and hoof it to the other side of the harbor for dinner. Fish and Chips with beer for Ned and a salmon wrap for me. The sun finally broke out and we were treated to crystal clear skies with sunrays beaming down on the water and boats. Once we got thru the grind of customs it was fun riding the ferry at sunset. The view from the boat pulling away from the waterfront was magical. You could see the hotels and government buildings lit up and their reflection in the water. (See today’s pic). As we pulled into Port Angeles after 9 pm, the crescent shaped moon looked gorgeous over the sparkly city lights. This was the first ferry ride we’ve done at night and it was quite fun. Ned and I passed the time by playing Skip-bo on the boat. (Ned figured I wouldn’t whine quite as much in public). Once we reached Port Angeles we drove around in the dark looking for a place to camp. After a couple of failed attempts (either too pathetic or the gates were closed) we found a private RV park. Good news – we have wifi. Bad news it’s a private RV park and we’re camped under a glaring security light. Tomorrow off to explore Olympic National Park and the weather forecast calls for sunshine!

On the high seas again – Goldstream Provincial Park, Victoria, BC Canada

It rained most of the night and was still going at it as we woke this morning. Needless to say it wasn’t a group breakfast at the campsite. We were all heading off in different directions today so the first part of the morning was everyone concentrating on getting their things together and getting situated. After a couple of misconnections, we finally all synced up at the Laundromat in town, grabbed a quick cup of coffee and had an opportunity to get our laundry done. At about 10:30, Josh said his good-byes and walked into town to catch the ferry. I admit there was a tug at my heart as he walked into the rain, with a fully loaded backpack in tow, off to his next adventure. (Be safe Josh and remember to call your mom when you get off the mountain!). Since there was still some time before our next sailing, Denise, Ned and I decided to explore the island. We drove to the west side of the island, to Lime Kiln State Park, to see the lighthouse. Even though there was still a light drizzle, it didn’t stop us from walking around the grounds and getting some great views of the park and lighthouse. Our noses were plastered against the door of the lighthouse looking in when we got lucky. The local park ranger was giving a private tour to his cousin and wife and asked us if we’d like to go along! He was a very friendly fellow who told us about the whale study taking place and the history of the lighthouse. We were able to go to the top of the lighthouse and were rewarded with great views - we could even see Victoria which was 9 miles away. It was fun to watch the harbor seals and porpoises play in the water, too. Afterward we visited the museum and learned a lot more about the transient and Orcas whales. I had no idea that so many pods of whales hung around these parts! Denise left for her ferry back to the mainland and Ned and I ventured to the other part of the island to check out the county park and the exclusive resort at Roche Harbor. As we headed back to Friday Harbor we realized that in 24 hours we had driven on every main road on the island. Mmm – I’ve decided that I’m not an island girl. Lots of fun to visit, but a little too claustrophobic for me. Hanging out waiting for the ferry to take us to Victoria, British Columbia was a good excuse to grab a very late breakfast and get caught up on email and check the upcoming weather. Crossing the channel to Victoria it was quite foggy and the captain kept blowing the foghorn and slowing down periodically to listen for small vessels. Ned was asked to leave the “picklefork”, the elevated walkways on each side of the bow, so the crew members down below wouldn’t be disturbed looking and listening for small craft or hazards. As a result, our ferry crossing took a bit longer than scheduled. Our destination for the night was Goldstream Provincial Park, about 10km outside Victoria, but we decided to poke around Victoria first. The view of the Olympia Peninsula was fantastic! Victoria was still shrouded in clouds, but the storm front ended over the peninsula, thus the sun was shining “God-like” right on the mountain. I’m not sure the picture captured it, but for what it’s worth here it is. We eventually made our way to the campground and were completely surprised by the beauty of this park. Our last two trips into Canada we were not overly impressed with the campgrounds. Everyone was crowded together and were parked helter-skelter. This one is heavily wooded and the campsites are far apart. It feels more like a National Park, even like Mt. Rainier which we just visited. It’s still raining so we’re having an evening of “dining-in” and perhaps play a game or two of skip-bo. Here’s hoping tomorrow brings some better weather so we can hike or ride bikes. I’m beginning to get a little antsy, but glad we have a day off from riding ferries or being held captive on a small island.

Ferry Hopping – Friday Harbor, San Juan Island 9/11/10

We woke to a beautiful sunshine day and one we did not take for granted! Denise surprised us all by whipping up a hot breakfast before heading out. We took advantage of the clear day and left for the top of Mt. Constitution. We were rewarded with a spectacular view of the surrounding islands. Apparently there are over 750 islands that make up the San Juans – I had no idea. The view of Mt. Baker, with its snow-crusted top was impressive. (See today’s pic). Hard to believe that in less than 48 hours Josh will begin his ascent up that mountain. We took our time making it to the ferry driving to Deer Harbor and then hanging out in the little seaport of Orcas Village. The ferry ride to San Juan Island was gorgeous with watching the sailboats and ferries cruising by and seeing the crystal clear views of homes hugging the shoreline. Once we reached Friday Harbor we found our way to Lakedale Resort. It’s a pretty swanky camping spot, but also known for its gorgeous lodge and canvas cabins. Apparently it is featured in the latest Sunset. Not a bad spontaneous pick! We have a very scenic and remote campsite overlooking a small lake, allowing Bella to run without a leash. We decided to explore the island. Our first stop was the lavender farm. At first the boys weren’t convinced, but were soon won over by the chocolate lavender ice cream and the cool distillation process with the accompanying audio-visual explanation. Next stop was the one and only vineyard on the island. Meh. We tasted 6 different wines and California definitely doesn’t have to worry about San Juan wines beating us out. We picked up a couple of baguettes and headed back to the campsite. While Josh and I did a little pre-dinner bike ride checking out the upscale grounds, Denise & Ned put together a yummy spaghetti dinner. (Don’t worry, I was on dish clean-up duty). Afterwards, Denise and the boys played skip-bo while I worked on my blog and played with my photographs. Tonight’s our last night hanging out with Josh. Tomorrow we part ways with Josh heading back to the mainland and we head west to Victoria. Definitely bittersweet.

Kicking Back on Orcas Island - Moran State Park, San Juan Islands – 9/10/10

We woke to a misty, cool morning surrounded by typical coastal fog. We all gathered for a quick breakfast then concentrated on breaking camp and heading towards the Anacortes ferry to the San Juan Islands. Waiting in line for the ferry was a treat with Bella, who certainly gets her fair share of attention! Once on Orcas Island we drove to the far end and set up camp at Moran State Park. After lunch we decided that a hike around Cascade Lake seemed like the best plan. It was hilly, with lots of ups and downs, but you couldn’t beat the views! We were mainly in a heavily wooded forest along a trail that skirted the lake. The lake gave us a colorful display of teal, jade and steel blue. The flora varied from wild foxglove, ferns and woodeared mushrooms. (Today’s pic is Cascade Lake). Of course, the big entertainment was watching Josh play fetch with Bella and training her to heel and obey. Once we reached the far end of the lake we decided to keep on trekkin’ and go view the falls. They were okay, but not spectacular or anything out of the ordinary. The entire hike took about 3 hours. We decided that checking out the little downtown of Eastsound was next in order. We found a quaint bar, just in time for happy hour, and settled down to some brewskies, a good zin, and some bruchetta. I’m a little worried that we are going to corrupt Josh, the mountaineer purist. I’m sure he doesn’t camp like this when traveling the backroads of China or hiking the high sierras! When we got back to camp, Josh made us all a scrumptious jumbalaya dinner. Yum. Afterwards, we all sat around Denise’s Eurovan (Wallymobile) and played some “chickenfoot” dominoes. Fun Times.