Day 9: Horseshoe Bend & Zion

Zion Canyon Campground RV Resort, UT

We headed out of Monument Valley mid morning with the intention of seeing Horseshoe Bend and doing a photo tour of Antelope Canyon.  Best laid plans.  By the time we got to Horseshoe Bend at about noon, the wind gusts were about 40 mph.  The 1.5 mile hike to Horseshoe Bend was very crowded with bus loads of tourists on the same pilmagrige and stinging sand pelting our bodies.  Yes, the view was beautiful, but it sure made us rethink hiking Antelope Canyon.

Nonna and Nana trying not to squint amongst the blowing wind and pelting sand. 

Plan B was to push on to Zion National Park, despite not having reservations.  We figured it was better to just keep driving rather than having to hike or camp in the midst of a sand storm,  As always, Zion never disappoints.  As expected, the park campgrounds were full, but we did nab an RV spot at the hotel/campground next door.  

Here’s the view as we came around the bend and got the first glimpse of the park. 

It was still too windy to bike so we set out on foot to explore the park in the mid-afternoon.   Fun to revisit all my favorite haunts (I think this is my 10th visit here!) and plot our day tomorrow.  Fortunately, we do have reservations in the park tomorrow.

Tonight was cooking at home, enjoying Fred’s wine and continuing our never ending conversations. 

Day 8: Monument Valley

Goulding Campground, Monument Valley, UT-AZ border

Today was as magical as it gets.  Every day I say this is the highlight of our trip...and then it keeps getting better and better.  We booked a private “Dreamcatcher” Tour of Monument Valley. It started at 5 pm and ended about 9:30.  The lighting, our guide, the warm evening winds, the music, the dancing,  the food, wow - what an evening.  

The gals getting ready for an adventure.  

The scenery was surreal.  The deeper we went into the valley, the more spectacular the formations were.  Our guide, Jamie, pointed out animal shapes in the rocks, told us Navajo stories, played the flute inside a big hogan, and called into the mountains as they echoed back.  

I kissed a dragon rock...

Sylvia touched the totem pole! 

We saw petroglyphs from the Anasazi civilization.

We watched day turn into evening as the majestic red rocks took on a golden hue. 

Our guide took us to a place nestled against the rocks.  A dinner was waiting just for the two of us!  Indian fry bread tacos and steak.  

And then we had a private show of chanting, singing and dancing.  

We talked around the campfire with Jamie  until the last embers burned out.  Just magical. 

How can you not love this gal?!   

Day 7: Nonna and Nana soaking it all in

Ojo Caliente Mineral Spa, New Mexico

Today’s activities were soak in the pools, soak in the sun, eat a little, read a little...repeat. Here are a few pictures (not all of the pools) of where we are. 

The courtyard as you enter the spa grounds. 

Nonna taking an early morning swim in the kiva pool 

The Iron Springs.  Supposed to help fatigue, immune system, and mood. The bottom of this pool is filled with several inches of smooth pebbles.  It feels so good to just walk around and massage the tootsies.  

The mud bath area.  Yes, we slathered ourselves in mud and then soaked in the sun.   

One of the hottest pools at 104. We didn’t last too long in this one.  

The Lithia Pool is also a meditation place.  This one is supposed to aid in digestion and help with arthritis. 

This place is dotted with different nooks and crannies to just relax.

One of the many fireplaces throughout.  

There are several gardens and hiking trails scattered around the spa grounds. 

Tonight Nonna treated us to a lovely dinner at the Spa Inn. A little vino, a little locally grown food, some dessert...wonderful way to end our day.  

Our sweet little camping spot on the grounds.  

Day 6: Land of Enchantment

Ojo Caliente Mineral Spa, New Mexico

Our first adventure of the day was visiting Acoma Pueblo Sky City.  This is the oldest continuously inhabited community in North America dating back to 1100 A.D.  There are over 300 structures with about 50 people still living here. There is no electricy, plumbing or running water.   Our tour started off at the Sky City Cultural City. We caught a small bus and were taken 370 feet to the top of the mesa.  

Our guide Alvin, is from this city, and did a phenomenal job educating us on the history of the Acoma Pueblo.  I was touched (and appalled) at some of the stories.  Really horrific to hear how these people were treated by the Spanish and the Catholic Church.  It’s amazing how resilient these people are.  This chapel, San Esteban del Rey Mission,  was built in 1629 by forced labor.  It took 11 years to be completed.  Ironically, only about 5% of the Acoma people are practicing Catholics today.  

We spent about an hour and a half walking around the city.  

The views were spectacular! 

At the end of the tour the guide gave everyone the option to climb down the mesa rather than take the tour bus back.  He said it wasn’t an easy hike down and if you were afraid of heights, don’t attempt it.  Nonna talked me into it.  (Mmmm, who’s corrupting whom on this trip?!).  It was amazing and our favorite part of the tour.  There were steep steps, carved in ladders, all contained in a slot canyon.  He advised us to look for the carved in dents that the women used to help guide them.  Hard to believe they did this while balancing on their heads pottery containing water.  See our happy faces as we made it safely to the ground.   For the record we were the only ones on the tour who did it! 

Next stop Santa Fe! After exploring the plaza and downtown area on foot we decided on “linner”...and it was delicious!  I love this place. The architecture, colors and friendly people give it such a great vibe.  The sculpture in the top left corner is called “Grandmother”. We thought that was a good omen.  

Hard to believe this day could get any better, but we ended it at Ojo Caliente Mineral Spa.  There are 8 different hot spring pools to chose from. We spent several hours bopping from pool to pool.  We soaked for hours, well into the late evening.  It was made all the more magical when the cliffs were lit up and the open fires were crackling under the clear starry night.  Life is good.  

Day 5: Petrified Forest National Park

Bluewater Lake State Park, NM

After a leisure morning hanging around the campsite we finally ventured out to discover the Homol’ovi culture and ruins.  First stop was the Visitor Center, museum, and then a walk around the ruins.

We had the ruins to ourselves. You could really feel the peacefulness of this site overlooking a wide expanse.  Interesting reading about the Hopi life and seeing excavated parts of their kivas.  What I really enjoyed was the shards of pottery that were displayed on rocks along the hike.  I think people just randomaly found them and left them for everyone to enjoy. 

Fun driving along historic Route 66 and seeing some of the iconic motor lodges.

We spent most of the day exploring the Petrified Forest National Park from one end to the other. Our first walk was the Giant Logs Trail. Some of the largest petrified logs in the park were here.

Some other things we explored were Agate Bridge a 110 foot long petrified log bridge and Newspaper Rock that displayed more than 650 petroglyphs, some over 2000 years old.  Fun to use my telescopic lens to get a close up of the rock! 

My favorite hike of the day was Blue Mesa.  It took us down into the badlands. Fun to get a different perspective of this geology as we hiked along. The top photo is Nonna beginning the descent down, the middle is half way down and the last photo is from the bottom of the badlands.

The Painted Desert was breathtaking! 

We ended our Petrified Forest Tour at the Painted Desert Inn.  It was built by the CCC and at one time was on Route 66.  Imagine how cool it would be to stay here while traveling on this historic route.  In the 1940’s it was a Fred Harvey hotel famous for the “Harvey Girls” that served you and put on a show.  The murals were painted to depict the migration and lifestyle of the Hopi Indians.

We have a really sweet campsite tonight in the New Mexico juniper and pinion trees.  It’s a bit chilly outside tonight, so we decided to dine inside.  Tonight we are having seared Ahi Tuna salad with homemade agre dolce.  Nonna is cooking.  Lucky me! 

Day 4: Sedona - On the Rocks

Homolovi State Park, AZ

We watched the most glorious, very red, sunrise this morning and remembered the adage “Red Sky at Night Sailor’s Delight, Red Sky at Morning Sailor’s take Warning” and thought that was a good omen to hit the road. Today’s destination Sedona! 

We lucked out with another glorious sunny day.  It was actually a bit cooler, perhaps in the low 70’s which made for great hiking weather. Neither Nonna nor I are the shopping type, so we bypassed the downtown area and happily headed right for the trails.  So many amazing choices in Sedona!  We opted for the Bell Rock Area Trails.  

We spent the next couple of hours just soaking in the scenery, warm weather and each other’s company.  This rock is called Courthouse Butte. 

Happy Camper😉

Nonna, our fearless leader.  Actually, I’ve renamed her Nonna the Goat.  (Stella, you don’t need to get any goats, Nonna can climb like a goat!) 

The view from a high point in our hike. 

Highlights of the hike: the red rocks (obviously), the spectacular flowers, the vistas and the mix of flora.  I especially liked the pine trees and cacti mixed together.  

Tonight we are staying at a very (ahem) humble campground.  It’s a state park in the high desert.  We’re hoping that what it lacks in ambience will be offset by the Hopi history.  Homolovi State Park is a center of research for the late migration period of the Hopi from the 1200s to the late 1300s. Supposedly there is a museum, petroglyphs and archeological sites. Tomorrow we’ll do some exploring and find out.  

But first tonight there is wine...

We think the label is apropos.