Biking Wisconsin

Lake Wissota, Chippewa Falls, WI

We pulled into Green Bay, WI mid morning heading for the Fox River bike trail. At first glance, Green Bay was unimpressive.  Ned stated, “She’s a sturdy girl with not much personality.”  Yep, nailed it. We started the bike ride from downtown.  It was mostly industrial, with piles of coal and big smoke stacks across the river. 

As we continued down the Fox River things became much more interesting.  I loved the history of this area. We went by Shantytown, the site of the first American Settlement in Wisconsin, Vince Lombardi’s house and lots of swanky homes.  The river began to be a little more picturesque. 

We spent some time at the lock and the rapids (Rapides des Peres). So fun to watch the white pelicans dive for fish, boats go thru the locks and the roaring rapids. The lock keepers house and gardens around it were really charming.  The Fox River was the main travel route for trappers beginning in the 1600’s as it provided the best access to the Mississippi River. 

The bike path continued on for several more miles, but we turned around when it became more of just riding thru open prairie.  Fun 15 mile bike ride, now time to drive across Wisconsin.  

We pulled into Lake Wissota campground late afternoon.  It was in the mid-80’s. We were going to head out for another 15 mile bike ride on the Old Abe trail, but decided instead to go for a swim.  We hung out in the lake until 7:30.  Beautiful mid-west evening. I think some stormy weather is forecast for the next couple of days so we thoroughly enjoyed the swim and biking around the park.  We were also pleasantly surprised by the nicely wooded campsites. Thanks Wisconsin, you’ve treated us well.  

Bike rides, Boat Museum and Beaches

Peninsula State Park, Fish Creek, WI

Gary & Dru headed back to Illinois today. We’re going to miss them! We had such a great time together. 

We spent the morning exploring this vast park on bikes.  It’s one of the best bike rides we’ve ever done.  We did 15 miles and went thru woods and meadows, biked along the shoreline and eventually rode into town. 

There are lots of dedicated trails just for bikes (in the summer) and cross-country skis (in the winter).  Here’s a trail marker we haven’t seen too much biking thru the South.  The Sunset bike trail was really fun cause you never knew what was around the next bend.  Sometimes a view of Green Bay, the town of Fish Creek and even a lighthouse.  

This afternoon we decided to do some further exploring on the island.  We toured Death’s Door Maritime Museum. There is a small straight connecting Green Bay and Lake Michigan that runs between Door Peninsula and Washington Island.  That’s the strait we crossed on the ferry yesterday. It’s named Death’s Door.  Although some people claim its due to all the shipwrecks there, it was actually named by the French (Porte des Morts) to discourage the British from settling here and trading. Door County gets its name from Death’s Door Straits.  We really enjoyed the museum.  We had the place to ourselves and wasted no time goofing around. Kevin is that you? 

Interesting things in the museum: an ice sled, a 600 year old dug out canoe, a 1909 Evinrude motor that became the basis for their first line of production motors and watching a video about the ferries cutting through the ice. There was also a 1930’s fishing boat that we crawled around in and explored. 

Always time to stop for some smoked whitefish, a hard cider tasting and a picnic.  

The last couple of days we’ve been mainly on the Green Bay side of the island.  We thought it would be fun to check out the Lake Michigan side.  We took a break on Rowley’s Beach and watched some brave souls wade. It would have to be a lot hotter than the mid 70’s for me to get in this water, that’s for sure.  

Exploring Washington Island, Door County WI

Hanging with my gnomies.  

We spent the day on Washington Island.  It’s a small, 35 square mile island, at the very tip of Door County Peninsula.  There are 710 residents that live here year round. How they do it, I don’t know.  There’s no stoplights, one grocery store and can only be accessed by ferry. They can also have very long winters. 

I asked one of the residents if they were able to get any Amazon deliveries.  Yep, the truck delivers packages to the ferry. Once it arrives the resident gets a personal phone call and has to pick it up at the ferry terminal.  

The great thing about being on an island is that you really can’t get lost.  I think we explored every mile of roadway available.  My favorite place we visited was Stavekirke.  It’s a place of spiritual meditation and worship. The building is both a replica (patterned after Borgund, Norway church in 1150 A.D.) and a tribute to Washington Island’s large Scandinavian heritage. The carvings and adornments blend both the pagan and Christian symbols.  

We spent a lot of time at the farm museum.  There were lots of barns, homesteads, farming machinery, blacksmith shop and livestock.  One of the barns had a 12 minute video of Hans talking about his grandmother from Iceland arriving in the late 1800’s.  I’m sure it was interesting, but we couldn’t understand a thing he said.  Ned, however, stuck it thru.  

Great place to have a picnic too!  The weather was amazing. Hard to believe it’s pouring in Chicago with flash flood warnings.  It was a close game...we both sucked. 

We climbed to the top of Lookout Tower in Mountain Park.  There were 169 stairs.  It was an amazing view you could see as far as Michigan. 

P.S.  I don’t really like my brother this much, I was just exhausted from climbing all those stairs.  

Of course, there’s always time to goof off too! What’s this?  A telephone booth with a princess phone??  Gary encouraging Ned to upgrade to a cell. 

Washington Island is a beautiful place.  

Tonight Gary and Dru introduced us to a fish boil.  It’s a great local experience.  So what is a fish boil? It’s a Scandinavian tradition that’s been occurring on this Peninsula since the 1860’s.  A big pot with locally caught whitefish is boiled on an open fire in a outdoor community style kitchen, usually in a large metal kettle. Tonight, Gil was our boiler master. Salt is added to the boiling water, next come the potatoes. Once the potatoes are cooked then the whitefish is added.  Once the fish is just about ready the boil master says, “The boilover is about to start”.  He throws kerosene onto the fire and it causes the oils in the pot to rise and overflow. Our dinner was so delicious.  For dessert we were served cherry pie.  Did you know Door County is the 4th largest producer of cherries in North America?  Here’s a video of the boilover.  Fish Boil.

Wisconsin Trekking

Peninsula State Park, Fish Creek, WI

Today’s destination, Door County, WI.  Getting there was half the fun. Our plan WAS to head for some Milwaukee breweries, but then cheese and chocolate happened.  We stumbled upon Milwaukee’s only urban cheese maker, Clock Shadow Cheese, so of course had to pop in. As luck would have it, we got a personal tour within a few minutes of arriving.  (Apologies to all the Chicago folks for donning the cheeseheads. Please don’t disown us. Disclaimer: This is in no way an endorsement of the Green Bay Packers.). 

As far as tours go, our guide was one of the least engaged we’ve ever had.  We’re not sure if she was reading from a script off her iphone, or just checking messages, however the view from the roof top garden was phenomenal.  Most of the tour was spent touting the “green building attributes” of the cheese making building. We didn’t see any actual cheese being made, but did get the 8x10 glossy photos of each step of the process.  Gary & Dru were very good students.  Yes, we managed to sample lots of their cheese to make up for the $3 tour.  

I spotted some bean to bar chocolate in their shop. What?! A chocolate maker we’ve never heard of 5 miles away? Hey, Gary and Dru want to ditch the brewery tour and go see a fellow chocolate maker?  They were onboard.  

Tabal Chocolate!  These guys are awesome.  We met Dan Bieser, the chocolate maker and instantly bonded with him. We spent a good hour with him. Truth is, I had to tear Ned away.  He was deep in chocolate world. Dan not only gave us a tour of his operation, but let us taste what he had in the melangers and some of his new cocoa beans that just arrived from Columbia.  Dan is doing some really interesting things with a local tea maker, Rishi.  His blueberry Rooibos Tea chocolate bar is incredible.  Tabal Chocolate check them out.  

This was our first trip to Milwaukee.  What a cool town. On our way to the chocolate maker we drove right thru the Miller brewing complex. My impression is that Milwaukee is transitioning from a rust belt industrial city to a more touristy, green conscious urban center.  I also loved the neighborhood corner bars. So retro. (Remember Laverne & Shirley? Kudos to Dru for remembering and singing us the theme song.   Laverne & Shirley Theme Song) 

Next stop, Pine River Dairy outside Manitowoc. Home of the 25 cent ice cream cone.  We’re on it.  Ned proudly wore the mint chocolate chip ice cream hat.  Gary, however, refused to place the strawberry cone on his head.  He hung it elsewhere.  

(Gary can be such a dick.)

Know what else Manitowoc is famous for?  On Sept. 6, 1962 Sputnik IV, a Russian satellite, crashed in the middle of town. We decided to go in search of the crash site.  Found it! The spot was in the middle of a very busy street downtown.  Ned and Dru had me in stitches running out in the midddle of the street, dodging cars to point to it.  Way to take one for the team! Unfortunately, the museum where you can see 20 lbs. of the actual debris had closed 18 minutes before we arrived.  Next trip.  

Goofing around...

We drove thru the town of Two Rivers on the banks of Lake Michigan.  It’s famous for being the birthplace of the ice cream sundae circa 1881.  Who knew?  No, we did not stop and get a sundae.  

The drive up the Peninsula and into Door County is one of the most iconic and beautiful drives in the USA.  We skirted along Lake Michigan. When we passed thru towns it felt like New England and the rural areas looked like a classic Grant Wood farm painting.  

We had dinner at Chef’s Hat in Ephraim this evening. The food, ambience and waiter, Make, were amazing!  Yes, that was his real name.  His nickname is Maker... as in Maker’s Mark?  I still have bourbon on the brain. 

After dinner we all watched the most incredible sunset.  Gary and Dru are staying at a super swanky hotel so of course we crashed their place and took advantage of their hot tub.  

We’re camped at Peninsula State Park.  Now this is the type of camping we’re used to!  In the woods, lots of tents, kids on bikes and not everyone lined up on mowed grass.  Here’s a map of where we are. 

Chicago - coming home

Chez Big Brother, McHenry, IL

Waking up in cool weather felt great.  Knowing I was going to see my big brother, Gary, today felt even greater. I couldn’t wait to hit the road and see him.  

One small problem tho leaving the campground early...

Ned rode his bike to the local store when we checked into the campground to pick up a few things. Unfortunately, he inadvertently left his wallet on the counter.  By the time we came back from our bike ride and took showers it was close to 10 pm. We tore Winnie apart looking for it, finally riding back to the store. This was the sign in the door.  Whew.  Glad “Mr. Hamilton’s” wallet was found. (Ned aka Ned Hamilton Russell).  Now, we just had to hang out until 10 waiting to pick it up! We spent the time at the Indiana Dunes National Park Visitor’s Center watching a couple of films. 

Even tho I’m a native Californian, born in Oakland, my coming of age years were in Chicago.  I consider it my second home. Ned and I’ve been back many times but never biked the Lakeshore Trail.  It was a foggy and a cool mid 70’s, but such a fun ride! 

Unfortunately for Ned, it was also a trip down memory lane for me.  So instead of him just getting to stretch his legs on a 10 mile ride, he got to hear me tell stories of all the places we passed.  “Look Ned, that’s McCormick Place where I went to my first concert”.  Three Dog Night circa 1973 for those curious.   Shed Aquarium and Planetarum - first kiss on a dare.  (The Rush Street I remember of funky, head shops and lava lamps no longer exists).   

Know how you can tell Chicagoans from a tourist?  They are the ones wearing t-shirts, (or no t-shirts at all) or bathing suits on the beach in 70 degree weather. All the tourists were wearing hoodies or jackets.  We had fun hanging out at the beach watching the lifeguards battle the wind and waves in row boats, and a couple of brave souls swimming.  

Of course the highlight of the day was seeing Gary and Dru.  We arrived mid afternoon and spent the time just catching up.  And yes, we were THOSE relatives that showed up with bags of dirty laundry. Can’t believe my big bro actually did my laundry!  Ha, growing up that would have never happened. Tonight was hanging out at the Rusty Nail, a great local joint. Great ribs, chicken and beers.  Tomorrow, we all hit the road for Wisconsin.  Lord only knows what kind of shenanigans we’re going to get into. Dru’s been coming up with some pretty fun suggestions.  Stay tuned...

Embracing the Midwest

Indiana Dunes State Park, IN

First stop was the historic Whitewater Canal in Metamora. We knew it was closed on Tuesdays, but decided to go check it out anyway.  So glad we did! Cool little town, much of it dating to the early 1800’s.  The National Historic Site featured some pretty interesting buildings, such as the only covered aqueduct in the U.S.  The aqueduct is a canal bridge over a creek. I’ve never seen that before.  We also poked around the Grist mill and the town.  Fun way to start the day. 

We hadn’t planned on going to Indianapolis, but my nephew, Marc, suggested we visit Sun King a local brewery.  My first impression of Indianapolis was that it was a tired old state capital, like Sacramento used to be before it became hip. We decided to explore it on bikes and what a pleasant surprise! The White River State Park trail goes along the White River and is really awesome!  There’s a promenade section with rough hewn limestone.  A nod to Indiana’s limestone quarries.  Along the way there are cool etchings in the rocks of famous buildings made from Indiana limestone.  It was another day close to a 100 degrees, so it was nice to ride along the river and catch a breeze every now and then.  

We also poked around the main park, zoo area and checked out the butterfly gardens.  

It was hot, humid and time for a beer. We had no idea that Indianapolis has such cool bike trails!  The White River Trail hooks up with the downtown Cultural Trail and we were able to ride our bikes safely thru the heart of Indianapolis to Sun King Brewery.  Such a great way to see the city!  Shout out to Indianapolis for having designated bike paths downtown. 

Voila! Sun King Brewery. Dang, that was one tasty beer.  Ironically, we tasted a few and decided on “Cloaked” a bourbon barrel aged (do you see a pattern?) and “Dusty v Evan American Porter”.  How do we know we are in the Midwest?  No longer bbq, but now cheese and sausage platters.  Yes, please.   

Also, shout out to Josh for helping me pick out my bike and strongly suggesting I get the rack on the back. This rack has carried ice, beach towels, and left overs.  This has freed up your mom to use both hands manning the brakes.  After a couple of beers it was much appreciated.  

We headed due north and pulled into Indiana Dunes National Park at 4ish. (It helped to pick up an hour. We are now on Central Time).  The biggest relief is that it is 75 degrees!  The coolest it has been since we left Doheny State Park first day of our trip.  When we first got here it rained for about 10 minutes and then decided to just quit.  We hopped on our bikes and headed for Lake Michigan. 

In the National Park, along the lake and dunes, are 5 homes left over from the 1933 World’s Fair.  They were built as “houses of tomorrow.” Some have been restored and some have definitely not lived up to the tomorrow theme.  They were brought here on barges in 1935. They are private residences today, but all on the National Register of Historic homes.   

I think we’ll be deflating our floaties now...the days of scorching hot sun, salty waters and warm lakes are behind us. The upper Midwest is calling. What lies ahead is cooler nights, erratic weather patterns, more bike rides and lots of beer. 

Kentucky Bourbon Trail Day 2

Mounds SRA Brookville, IN

At 9 this morning we headed to Tyrone Hill, also known as Wild Turkey Distillers.  The boubon trail is not for the feint of heart.  Our tour guide, Casey, was a real pistol of a Kentucky girl. Ned was wearing an orange shirt, apparently Tennessee football colors, so she picked on Ned for most of the tour. Of course, it didn’t help that we were from California.  It was a great tour, really interesting.  The temp is still hovering around 100 degrees so it was nice to be on a bus going from the distillery to the rickhouses. 

Unlike Willett Distillery yesterday, the tastings were much more manageable...(at 11 in the morning).  My nephew Marc had given us a bottle of Russell’s 10 yr from Wild Turkey.  After tasting the 4 samples the Russell 10 yr was still the best. Thanks Marc!  The tasting room here is called “The Angel’s View.” (Bourbon drinkers will get the pun).  It overlooks the Kentucky River.  Some yahoos  from California have a bungee jumping business off the train trestle.  It’s the highest bridge in Kentucky.  It costs $150 per jump.  All the locals think this is nuts.  I agree.  

We took a lunch break between distilleries.  Knowing that it’s probably our last chance for real Southern bbq, we chose a local bbq joint.  Best beans I’ve ever eaten.  I am now obsessed with trying to recreate this recipe.  Everyone be forewarned. I’ll need tasters.  

Next stop on the bourbon tour was Buffalo Trace.  Hands down most charming campus.  It’s designated as a National Historic Site.  I loved the brick buildings.  Even the rickhouses were made of brick. So fun to see the barrels in the windows of these brick buildings.  Buffalo Trace tours and tastings are free, so there were a lot more people on this tour.  You don’t get to go into the distillery on this tour, but they make up for it by allowing us to go into the bottling plant.  In fact they even let us walk the line and talk to the employees as they were bottling.  Every distillery talks about the amount of bourbon that is lost the longer it ages.  These guys had a great visual aid of it. (The one with only 1/3 left has been aged for 18 years.)

Buffalo Trace is experiencing a shortage of bourbon.  So, for two of their tastings they offered us a vodka that they make and the “white dog”, which is the booze that hasn’t been aged yet into barrels. Thanks, but no thanks.  I came for the bourbon.  We tasted two bourbons and a dessert bourbon.  Think a Bailey’s  bourbon.  My son-in-law, Kevin, makes a great Manhattan so naturally Megan and Kevin get a bottle of their good bourbon.  Enlightened self-interest.  

With the temps still hovering around 100 degrees, we decided not to stay at Big Bone Lick State Park. (Yes, that’s really the name).  They didn’t have a place to swim. We perused the map, did some research and decided to cross over the Ohio River into Indiana. I really enjoyed the back roads on this trip. Things I learned:  Frankfort, KY is so charming and quaint! Dates back to the 1790’s and parts of it look like Boston; and the Ohio River has some impressive barges and many of the towns along this river look like the towns in Iowa along the Mississippi River.

We’re staying at Mounds SRA in Brookville, Indiana.  Know what it has going for it?  A lake!! A beach! Water that is not above body temperature!!  We arrived a bit before 6, quickly paid for and picked out a campsite and then just drove to the beach.  We were that ready to swim. It was friggin’ awesome. We hung out in the water until at least 8.  (Great thing about Winnie is that when there are no showers to wash the sand off our feet she comes thru.)  Ironically, we had chosen one of the shadiest campsites at 6 pm. We are the ONLY people in this loop of the campground so we had quite the selection. When we came back at 8ish, our campsite was the only one in the blazing sun. Go figure.  Only thing to do was break out the Russell bourbon, buy some ice and make the best of it. 

We’ve officially left the South.  Telltale sign, no more Mountain Dew Soda Machines at the campground restrooms and no more washers and dryers in the campground.